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The Cimarron Terminator – A 1887 Clone

As a fan of Terminator 2, I knew the moment I saw Cimmarron releasing a gun they called the Terminator that it would be some form of the Winchester 1887. I was right, but surprisingly, this wasn’t the pistol grip-only version we see in the film. The Cimarron Terminator features a 20-inch barrel and a full wood stock. It’s fairly far from what we saw in Terminator 2

Still, I didn’t care. As a shotgun enthusiast, I’ve always wanted an 1887 of some kind, preferably a clone, since the originals only worked with black powder loads. If you’re not familiar with the design, it comes from the mind of John Browning; admittedly, it was reluctantly peeled from his brain. 

He wanted to make a slide action, but Winchester wished to stay on brand with their lever action designs. He made the lever-action shotgun, and eventually, he got to make his slide-action shotgun, which became the 1893 and later the famed 1897. The 1887 shotgun never really took off, but it’s an essential part of shotgun history. 

What’s the Cimarron Terminator

The Terminator 1887 is a Chinese-made shotgun that’s surprisingly well-made. It looks drastically better than the previous Chinese variants imported by Century Arms. The wood looks fantastic and feels solid. It’s smooth as a baby’s butt, so don’t expect any texturing to grip back. The finish is a matte black that I wouldn’t call a rich blue, but it looks great.

It doesn’t look or feel made in China, either. The Cimarron Terminator has a surprisingly slick action that only got better the more I shot with it. The action is clunky, but all 1887 actions feel somewhat clunky. It’s a lot of moving mass for a lever action design. 

The gun features a 20-inch barrel and a five-round magazine tube. If you feel inclined, you can load one in the chamber and one on the carrier to get seven rounds. Seven rounds isn’t bad by any shotgun standard. The barrel has a standard cylinder bore choke, and your sight is nothing more than a bead. 

It’s plain but a great representative of the Winchester 1887 in what’s not necessarily a sporting configuration. 

Shooting the Terminator 

The Terminator delivers the same lever action sensation that every lever action delivers. It’s chunky since it has to deal with the hefty shotgun shells, but it’s still so overly satisfying. It’s fun to rack the lever back and forth as you disperse lead like a machine. The action feels super smooth and provides positive ejection and extraction. 

That leads us to reliability. The Cimarron Terminator chewed through a lot of birdshot without any problems. I shoot a lot of Monarch because it’s cheap and never challenges the gun. Even the Monarch buckshot, which absolutely sucks, worked fine through the Terminator. I could almost feel the extra effort the gun put into extracting and ejecting those gummy Monarch hulls. 

The feeding and extraction weren’t an issue, and the gun always went bang. The hammer sits almost flush with the frame, and a bit of dry fire made it clear that it springs forward with some serious force. It always ignites those primers and ensures the big bore spews its lead. 

I’ve shot this gun a ton. In fact, I’ve probably fired its MSRP worth of ammo, which isn’t tough when shotgun ammo is so expensive, and this gun is so cheap. No particular round gave me noticeable trouble or performance issues in that practice. 

Riding the Recoil 

You will notice that the 1887 was not built for the modern push/pull style of recoil control. The thin foregrip makes it difficult to press forward, and pulling back with your hand in the loop isn’t intuitive. You have to ride the recoil with this gun. That’s not a big deal to me since this is purely a fun gun for me. 

Working the action is fun but admittedly slow compared to a pump gun. Even without a shot timer, the 1887 comes up quite slow compared to a Remington 870. This isn’t the fault of the Terminator; it’s just a problem with the gun’s overall design, which dates back to 1887. 

Make sure you watch your fingers on the forend. It’s easy to hit the barrel, and the barrels get hot awfully quickly. Loading the gun is also not super straightforward. The magazine tube sits under the barrel, which makes it tougher to access. You won’t reload anything but the chamber quickly. 

The bead puts the shot at your point of aim. The patterns aren’t bad; they are just typical cylinder bore patterns. Your shot selection will have more to do with your patterns than any other factor. If you point it at the target, it will hit the target. You are limited to 2.75-inch rounds.  

The Lever Action Shotgun For You

The Terminator is likely best suited for shooters who will participate in SASS-style matches, but it is also just a fun experience at a low price point of around $500. At that price point, you are getting a faithful adaption of a platform long out of production. 

What’s Cookin’? DIY Hobo Cooker

This authentic hobo cooker from 1935 creates a very effective pot using a simple tin and minimal effort.

Have you ever looked at litter in the city or on trails and imagined what you could make from it? That’s a creative mentality. Let’s look at creating a DIY Hobo Cooker like the Hobos needed for survival!

What is Hobo Cooking?

Hobo cooking is the art of transforming a campfire into a gourmet kitchen with simplicity and flavor. It encourages creativity, allowing you to use whatever ingredients you have on hand—wild mushrooms, leftover sausage, you name it!

This rustic style involves cooking directly over the flames, with minimal cleanup. Meals are served right from foil packets pulled from the coals, turning campers into culinary MacGyvers. Hobo cooking celebrates improvisation and the magic of the outdoors, making every campfire a delicious adventure. 

Are Hobo Skills Relevant?

Hobo skills remain remarkably relevant for urban survival. They represent resourcefulness essential in challenging situations, allowing individuals to adapt to limited resources and unpredictable scenarios.

Begin by splitting the green stick in the middle with your knife, aiming for a 3 to 4-inch split.

Hobos find shelter in discarded materials, repurposing them into functional tools and creating fires from urban debris. They scavenge strategically, identifying edible wild plants and converting discarded cans into makeshift stoves, all while valuing tarps and ropes.

Their ability to blend into the environment and navigate urban spaces mirrors that of a woodsman. During power outages, they cook meals using repurposed containers and found materials, surviving and thriving. Ultimately, hobo skills are vital assets in urban environments.

The DIY Hobo Cooker

This authentic hobo cooker from 1935 uses a simple tin and little work to make a very effective pot. Let’s take a look at the step-by-step process to show how you can easily make your own—for fun. Don’t forget you can also use it in a survival situation.

Open the can, leaving about 2 inches attached.

You’ll need a thumb-thick green stick about 3 feet long, a sharp pocket knife, and your favorite canned food. The tin needs to be a standard can, not one with a pop-top. I recommend a pair of leather gloves for heat resistance and protection against sharp tin edges. 

This DIY Hobo Cooker is relatively easy to make. Start by splitting the green stick in the middle with your knife. Shoot for a 3 to 4-inch split—you can adjust if needed. Next, use a can opener like a P-38 or any kind other than a safety can opener. A Hobo would most likely use his pocket knife blade. Meanwhile, a modern Hobo or camper may use the can opener on a Swiss Army Knife.

Open the can and leave approximately 2 inches attached. Get the green stick and fit the lid into the split at the top. Squeeze the green stick tightly and bend the lid by rotating the stick away from the food. After you make a few turns, the lid will grip tightly in place on the stick. You are now ready to cook—hobo style.  

Fire Up the Hobo Cooker

You should already have a fire. When the flame is high, hold the Hobo Cooker over it like you were fishing. 

Grip the green stick tightly and rotate it away from the food to bend the lid. After a few turns, the lid will be secured firmly on the stick.

Note: No need to worry about the plastic lining while there’s liquid in the can. Once it’s empty, just clean it out and burn it dry to eliminate that plastic liner. Easy as hobo pie!

John Taffin – A Legend Leaves Us

On March 10th, 2025, the firearms community lost a great one. John Taffin, a legendary firearms writer, departed this earthly realm at the age of 85. Mr. Taffin famously wrote for Guns Magazine and American Handgunner and was considered one of the foremost experts on revolvers. Mr. Taffin authored five books and hundreds of articles on revolvers, but also semi-automatics, and seemingly remained active.

Personally, I think Mr. Taffin was one of my favorite writers. I loved scrolling to the back of GUNS Magazine to read the latest Campfire Tales. As a teenager, I would spend a lot of time reading magazines while my parents grocery shopped, occasionally convincing them to buy one.

Mr. Taffin’s articles were always my favorites. As a teenager, I distinctly remember writing notes about wadcutters and Bisley grips because I didn’t know what they were, but I took notes to remind me to go learn.

(This was the dial-up internet era, so there wasn’t an instant solution.)

I’ve heard people mention that a real expert can explain a concept so that anyone can understand it. Perhaps that’s what drew me to Mr. Taffin’s work as a kid and aspiring gun writer. I didn’t know anything, but he explained complicated concepts in a way I could understand them.

Not only could he explain his intricate knowledge of revolvers simply, but he could also do it in a way that was entertaining and relevant.

John Taffin and My Generation

My generation didn’t have Skeeter Skelton and Elmer Keith. They had long passed before I became interested in guns. While their works are largely immortalized, they weren’t creating anything new, and they weren’t writing about new guns and calibers like Mr. Taffin.

Mr. Taffin was my Elmer Keith and Skeeter Skelton. He provided an education on revolvers, both new and old. Mr. Taffin loaded rounds and shared data. He experimented and provided an opinion based on decades of experience that held real weight.

John Taffin’s writing created a lasting legacy and inspired people like me to do what I do now. For that, I am forever grateful. My heart goes out to Mr. Taffin’s family in this trying time. John Taffin was a legendary figure to me, and our community of gun writers is diminished without him.

Boker Plus Pocket MUK – High-Quality and Affordable EDC

Pocket MUK

There are a couple of things that become relatively common once you’re an established knife reviewer. For starters, your spouse asks you before tossing out any type of cordage, leather, wood, or similar materials because you might want to use them as test mediums.

The other thing that happens is that people begin to recommend knives to you. This was how I learned about the Boker Plus Pocket MUK. Someone on Facebook tagged me in a discussion about the Pocket MUK. Unfortunately, I wasn’t quick enough to snag one that time around, as they sold out in a heartbeat. Thankfully, another shipment arrived about a week later, and I snapped one up.

The Pocket MUK is a collaboration between custom knifemaker Matthew Gentry and Boker. Some of the more experienced knife nuts might recognize the inspiration behind this knife. I mean, it’s right there in the name. This is a spin on the classic Nessmuk knife design.

For those scratching their heads, Nessmuk was the pen name for George Washington Sears. He wrote for Forest and Stream back in the 1880s and was an early forerunner of ultralight backpacking, though it wasn’t called that back then. He also wrote a book on camping called Woodcraft, which was published in 1884. His knife design has stood the test of time and is still popular today.

Where the full-size Nessmuk is a versatile field knife, the Pocket MUK takes that sensibility and practicality and turns it into a compact utility blade.

Nessmuk and Pocket MUK
Top knife is a traditional Nessmuk from Bark River Knives. See the similarities?

Pocket MUK Specs

This is a small knife that’s perfect for pocket carry. The Sandvik 12C27 steel blade is 2.4 inches long. Known for its corrosion resistance, this is a great steel option for this type of knife. It’s tough without being impossible to sharpen in the field. The blade has a stonewash finish, which helps hide marks from use if that’s a concern. Personally, I don’t worry about that a whole lot, but I do appreciate how it looks.

Jimping on the spine provides an additional level of control when doing precision work.

The Pocket MUK’s contoured handle is brown Micarta with black liners. It measures 4.29 inches, giving the knife an overall length of 6.69 inches. Micarta is my favorite handle material for outdoor knives. It’s incredibly durable.

My only complaint about the handle is that the butt end is left a little sharper than I’d like. A few moments with a belt sander will resolve the problem for me, but it’s worth mentioning. When using the knife in such a way that the end of the handle rests in the palm, it can dig in uncomfortably.

Pocket MUK Sheath

The Pocket MUK comes with a Kydex sheath. I’ll readily admit that I truly struggled with the sheath at first. It’s an extremely tight fit, and I really had to force the knife into it. Forcing an extremely sharp blade anywhere is never a great idea. However, the fit has loosened up just slightly over time, such that the knife is easier to insert and remove.

Another knife aficionado I know did a quick video on how he resolved the sheath issue.

The Kydex sheath holds the knife securely.

One nice feature of the sheath is the weep holes they’ve put at the tip. This allows moisture to escape from the sheath rather than be kept on the blade.

Weep holes release moisture from inside the sheath.

Boker included a pocket clip that can be attached to the sheath via a couple of screws. Personally, I don’t carry my pocket fixed blades with such clips, but I know others who do. I just toss the knife and sheath into my pocket and go about my day.

The pocket clip can be easily added or removed.

Pocket MUK Recommendation

Matthew Gentry has designed one heck of a great knife. Boker, in turn, did an excellent job with their production run of it. The Pocket MUK is exceptionally handy and can be used in a wide range of roles, from food prep in camp to processing game.

One of the best features of the Pocket MUK is the price. It retails for less than $40. You’re getting a lot of quality for that price. It’s cheap enough that you could pick up a couple of them, one for EDC and another to toss into your pack or survival kit as a backup knife.

Find the Pocket MUK at Boker USA as well as DLT Trading.

The Weaver Stance in 2025

U.S. Marine Corps Capt. Orlando Higgins, foreground, with Regional Command Southwest, fires an M9 pistol Oct. 3, 2013, during a weapons marksmanship course at Camp Leatherneck, Afghanistan. (U.S. Marine Corps photo by Sgt. Bobby J. Yarbrough/Released)

Jack Weaver developed the Weaver stance in the 1950s, and it arguably remained relevant into the early 2000s. Admittedly, the gun community can be cautious about change, so you may argue that it only hung around for tradition’s sake. 

Early in my gun-shooting career, I was taught the Weaver and Isosceles stances and tended to favor the Weaver for comfort. While I might be a died-in-the-wool fan of the modern Isosceles, I wanted to go back and explore the Weaver stance. 

I’d argue that there is a lot of misinformation about the stance out there. I also want to discuss its effectiveness and why it’s not as popular as it once was. 

What’s The Weaver Stance 

First, it’s the most misunderstood and mistaught shooting position. My first professional instruction on shooting a handgun was arguably from the Marine Corps. Prior to that, the closest thing to instruction I had was from a police officer at local bowling pin shoots when I was a teenager. 

Those two experiences largely taught me the Weaver stance incorrectly. It wasn’t until my platoon sergeant, a Marine Corps Shooting Team member, finally taught me the correct Weaver stance. These days, I’d even argue that stance is the wrong descriptor. It really should be called the Weaver technique. 

Anyone who has spent time in the gun world can recognize the stance: the nondominant leg is forward, and the dominant leg is slightly to the rear. The dominant arm is held straight forward with a crook in the support arm. It’s a classic stance, and that’s the Weave stance, right? 

Yes, ish, what’s most important about this technique is the isometric tension. Isometric tension is used to control the recoil. It’s created by the dominant hand pushing the gun forward and the support hand pulling it rearward. The bent arm’s position makes it easier to pull rearward. 

Isometric tension is how an experienced shotgunner controls his weapon, so why wouldn’t it work for other platforms? This is why it’s better described as a technique than a stance. You can apply isometric tension in various positions, and there are photos of Jack Weaver shooting in an isosceles-type position. 

Does the Weaver Stance Work? 

Yes, it works very well. Assuming a solid Weaver stance and using the push-pull method of isometric tension will help you control the gun and return the sights to the target. Tension beats recoil and is very effective at keeping the gun on target. 

I’d argue it’s just as effective at recoil control as a modern shooting stance. I can’t see a big difference between the two on the timer in just putting repeated shots accurately on target. 

So Why Did It Fade Away 

It’s great when it comes to shooting and controlling recoil, but there is more to shooting than that. I’m no expert, but from the draw, it seems slower to acquire than the modern stance. Applying the push/pull seems to slow my draw down slightly. You must focus on that push/pull mechanic to make the most of it, which takes up mental energy. 

If it offered an advantage in recoil reduction from a modern bent elbow position, it would make sense. But I can get the same recoil control from a modern shooting stance without needing to push/pull. Breaking down and building up a modern stance is faster and easier with less to remember. 

It’s also easier to field when dealing with kneeling positions, especially when cover is involved. We can start talking about armor and plates, which are more relevant to uniformed, professional firearms users. The modern stance pushes the most armor forward with its squared-up approach. 

The classic Weaver Stance simply lacks the versatility a modern stance grants you. That’s why it’s faded and become less relevant in recent years. 

Parang-Style Impossible Machete! 

The Condor Tool & Knife Impossible Machete has a Malaysian parang design and a leather-wrapped handle. Its 11-inch blade makes it ideal for camping and jungle adventures!

Unleashing the Power of the Not-So-Impossible Machete!

Born in the heart of El Salvador, Condor Tool & Knife burst onto the knife scene with a flair for crafting machetes, and let’s be honest—they nail it. Their Parang-Style Impossible Machete is one of their most standout creations, taking the classic Malaysian parang and giving it a fresh, modern twist. It’s as if they’ve taken something old and made it cool enough to wear sunglasses!

Impossible Machete

Condor Tool & Knife delivers with the Impossible Machete, a standout inspired by Malaysian parangs. Weighing 23 ounces, it features a slim 0.20-inch blade that’s 10.89 inches long and an overall length of 16.71 inches. The rugged forged finish and leather-wrapped handle add a tough vibe reminiscent of Rambo IV props.

Crafted from 1075 High-Carbon Steel with a convex grind, this machete means business. The hand-crafted, leather-welted sheath completes the look.

The Condor Tool & Knife Impossible Machete made setting up a swamp grill with “Y” sticks and cross pieces easy.

While it’s not a traditional parang, it still performs well. The handle is comfy in a standard grip, avoiding the bite of cord-wrapped styles. Just be mindful of the exposed tang—it can restrict your grip, so stay on the leather where it feels best.

Parang-Style Impossible Machete Test

Kudos to Condor Tool & Knife for equipping the Impossible Machete with a convex grind. Unlike the common flat or hollow grinds, this design cuts smoothly without sticking. I tested it on a downed maple, and it sliced through effortlessly.

The machete is perfect for chopping finger-to-broomstick-thick green wood, like the branches I used to build a swamp grill that keeps you off the damp ground. I gathered thick “Y” branches and thinner pieces with just a few chops each. Using a pilot stick helped quickly drive those “Y” sticks into the ground.

The author used the Impossible Machete as a draw knife for crafting projects and making kindling for fire.

When it’s time to cook, I keep the grill pieces off until I have a solid coal base.

Hacking It

Starting a fire is where the real fun begins for me outdoors. I use the “Big Blade” batoning method to split wood more efficiently and safely, allowing for greater precision. The Impossible Machete excels at reducing wood to kindling—just add your tinder, and you’re ready to go.

Resembling a true parang, its weight shifts toward the tip for excellent balance. I created shavings from a dead poplar branch at a 45-degree angle, and the machete produced smooth curls effortlessly, thanks to its wicked convex edge.

In about 20 seconds, “V” chopping nearly cut through a wrist-thick maple trunk using the Condor Tool & Knife Impossible Machete.

Equipped with a sharp point, it’s great for drilling and chopping bamboo. Since I didn’t have bamboo, I tested it on a downed hemlock. With quick wrist flicks, I drove the tip into the bark, allowing for swift and controlled penetration. When I delivered heavier chops, hitting the tough knots sounded like striking steel—my first battle scar appeared! Next time, I’ll use the spine to tackle those stubborn knots, just like the old-timers advised.

Summary

Condor Tool & Knife has created an ideal blend of portability and weight with the Impossible Machete, which is perfect for camping and survival. You could call a 12 to 14-inch version the Unbelievable Machete. MSRP: $154.42

For more information, please check out Condor Tool & Knife!

I’m Tired of Fear Porn

I’m really sick of seeing YouTube and website ads that account to nothing but fear porn. Admittedly I appreciate the people who are willing to advertise firearms-related content anywhere, but I’m just sick of seeing fear porn in the firearms community. Every time I hear a company combine a listicle-style five things/reason/upgrades gun owners need to do, or they’ll die/go to jail/get eaten by bears, I roll my eyes. 

It’s also guaranteed that I won’t shop with that company. Fear porn is a term that the internet has applied to any form of media that tries to capture, advertise to, or entertain people via a fear response. Specific terms are chosen and used and are used widely by most mainstream media sources. That’s why the evening news promises to tell you about the ‘Five things that are secretly killing you at home.’ (More at 11.) 

Why Use Fear Porn? 

Because it works. The combination of a tight script and the right imagery will trigger an emotional reaction. As people, we are emotional. Sure, we can be logical, but it’s tougher to target logic quickly and efficiently. A short soundbite can trigger an emotional response. They issue you a threat, essentially. 

Version 1.0.0

“If you’re a gun owner and don’t do these five things, you might as well check yourself into jail right now!” 

It’s much easier to say that than to use a logical advertisement that sells the benefits of their service. You’re in a tough spot when you have 15 seconds to capture me before I hit the skip add button. That doesn’t excuse the use of fear porn in advertising or in media in general. There is a time and place to report the truth and to advise on real threats. 

However, we rarely see this done responsibly. Fear porn as a whole has become part of the media experience. I can’t affect the broader media culture, but I don’t want to see it in the firearms world. 

Why We Should All Hate It 

Right off the bat, it’s cringy and immature. It paints firearms culture and the firearms industry as unreasonable, childish, and no better than tabloids and clickbait B.S. We should be in an industry focusing on freedom, preparedness, and responsibility. We shouldn’t have to scare people to drive sales. 

That’s my reason to despise it, but there are more significant implications with this type of media consumption. Exposure to this type of fear porn and the emotional reaction it causes comes from the amygdala. Repeated and constant exposure to fear porn can lead to long-term changes in amygdala activation. 

To put it simply, the more of this content you consume, the higher the likelihood your brain will make you feel anxious and emotional in regards to that content. Fear, anxiety, depression, and heightened emotional reactions aren’t what I’m looking for in my industry. 

More anxiety can lead to more sales, and personally, any company that’s trying to alter my brain chemistry to make sales can kick rocks. As the greater firearms community, we should advocate for less fear and more truth, more logic, and a lot less B.S. 

Budget Blades – Save Money and Get the Job Done

Budget Blades
Culpepper from Kershaw Knives. Photo credit: Jim Cobb

When it comes to knives, whether we’re talking about EDC, camping, kitchen, or survival, the sky’s the limit when it comes to pricing. You can easily spend several hundred dollars or more, especially if you want a full custom job with all the bells and whistles. But there are also several budget blades on the market.

You can get a very nice knife, one that will hold up to real-world use, for a relatively low price. If you know where to look, that is. The market is flooded with cheap junk that is likely to fall apart or otherwise not hold up very well. Sure, it looks shiny and cool, but if it won’t hold an edge, it’s all but worthless.

Here are three budget blades to consider the next time you’re in the market for a new knife.

Budget Blade #1 — Victorinox Swiss Classic Paring Knife – $8.00

Photo credit: Victorinox

Made by the same company that produces the venerable Swiss Army Knife, this fixed blade is incredibly handy. It weighs just 0.7-ounce and has a thin blade, so it’s very slicy. It runs 7.4 inches from end to end, with a 3.25-inch stainless steel blade. I’ll grant you that a kitchen paring knife might sound like an odd addition to this list. But it works very well with food prep in the field as well as at home.

The only drawback is it doesn’t come with any sort of sheath. But honestly, you could easily put something together yourself. Heck, just fold it up inside a bandana and put it in your food kit in your pack. The Victorinox Swiss Classic Paring Knife is available in several handle color variations at the Victorinox website.

Budget Blade #2 — Mora Companion Orange – $19.99

Photo credit: DLT Trading

Mora has long been known for producing knives that perform well above their price point. The Companion is a shining example. I’m going with the blaze orange model for our list, as it’s easy to see if you set it down. But it’s available in several different configurations as well as slightly different price points.

The sheath is a sturdy plastic with a weep hole at the bottom. The Companion’s stainless-steel blade is just about four inches long. The knife is comfortable to use and feels great in the hand. This knife is recommended by many survival instructors. You can find it at numerous retailers, including DLT Trading.

Budget Blade #3 — Kershaw Culpepper – $28.99

Photo credit: DLT Trading

I’ll be honest in that this is one of my favorite folding knives, and that has nothing to do with the inexpensive price. The Culpepper is a Barlow-style knife. This is a design that’s been in production since the 1600s. Traditionally, it was a commoner’s knife. It was something the average person might have as a working knife for doing chores.

The Culpepper is a great example of a knife that’s just made to do its job. This is a single-blade folding knife. The 3.25-inch blade is 7CR17MoV steel, and it features black G10 handle scales with brass liners. It tips the scales at a modest three ounces. There’s a lanyard hole at the base of the handle in case you want to add some decoration.

You can find it at the Kershaw Knives website for $35.19, but it’s a little cheaper at DLT Trading.

You could buy all three knives and still not spend over sixty bucks. And none of them are likely to fail under pressure.

Suppressors and Point of Aim Change

I learned a lot of misinformation about guns while in the Marine Corps. Oddly, most of it was ‘unofficial’ knowledge that contrasted what the Marine Corps taught. One was the idea that our DM’s suppressor would wear out, so he should rarely use it. Our DM (Designated Marksman) had zeroed his rifle with the can and was now told to remove it until needed. He was the first to explain to me that it would affect his zero and point of aim. He was deeply annoyed.

This 1st Lt. was confident in his misinformation, which resulted in an ‘aye sir,’ and our DM strategically removed his suppressor when leaving and coming into the FOB. This introduced me to the idea of a zero shift with suppressors. Now, more than a decade and some change later, I decided I wanted to investigate the phenomenon and see why and how much shift occurs when you mount a can or remove it, depending on your zero and point of aim.

I hoped to have a definite answer, but sadly, the best I can come up with is, “It depends.”

How Suppressors Affect Point of Aim

When you shoot your rifle, your barrel doesn’t stay still. It might be fixed in every sense of the word, but when you fire, that barrel moves around a lot. You just can’t see it. You’ll have to watch a super slow-motion video to see it, but it’s kind of crazy. It flexes and whips around, and it’s the reason why you shouldn’t mount optics to most handguards.

The barrel’s movement and vibration are commonly called barrel harmonics. They’re consistent with your gun and ammo, and that’s why your zero remains your zero. However, when you start to add or reduce weight, your barrel harmonics change. Suppressors add weight and can cause your point of aim and point of impact to shift.

How much the addition or removal of a suppressor shifts depends on several factors.

Point of Aim Shift and Suppressors – The Factors

Barrel Length and Weight

The point of impact shift can be small or radical, and the barrel length and weight matter. Shorter and lighter barrels tend to have greater movement changes when shooting, while longer and heavier barrels tend to have a smaller point-of-aim impact.

Suppressor Weight

Suppressor weight is another factor. If you swap suppressors, you’ll notice a POI shift. A heavier suppressor creates a shift that’s a lot different than a lighter suppressor. Outside of swapping suppressors, it seems that heavier suppressors create a more pronounced POI change.

The Baffles

Baffles slow the burning of gasses down, which cools them and helps suppress the weapon. That action also shifts your point of impact. It’s an effect that’s tough to mitigate and even happens with other types of muzzle devices.

How Much Point of Aim Shift?

As established, it depends, but for fun, I took my only suppressed AR out and launched some lead. I originally zeroed the SAI 1-6X with the suppressor in place with a simple 50/200 zero. I returned to the 50-yard line and used a series of two-inch dots to test the difference between firing suppressed and firing unsuppressed.

My ammo was cheap 55 grain .223. I fired a five-shot group into the top middle two-inch circle so I could fire on the left and right bottom targets and observe for shift. I let the suppressor cool while checking my target. I popped it off the QD mount and fired another five-round group.

I aimed dead center as best I could, but the rounds all hit high. One hit to the right, but that was my fault, flyer. Outside the flyer, the second group was tighter. That’s because, between strings of fire, I added a pistol box to my range bag, which made it a sturdier rest than just the bag.

The group is a little over an inch off target, high at 50 yards, and represents about a 2.5 MOA shift high. That’s a decent little jump between the two groups, but you’d still hit your deer or threat.

Mitigation

The best mitigation would be to zero suppressed and keep the rifle suppressed. You can also experiment and learn whatever holdover is necessary to swap between the two. Since mine hit high, the easiest thing would be to aim a little high. However, if your point of impact shift is high and left or high and right, it gets more complicated.

Maybe suppressed rifles should just stay suppressed?

Camp Utensils for Good Eats

Camp Utensils For Good Eats can be simple, rustic, or made from modern materials.

There’s no point in overcomplicating outdoor utensils. Keep it simple! You need a trusty frying pan and a pot for boiling or braising. Add in a few camp utensils, and you’re all set for some delicious camp meals with the best camp utensils for good eats!

Here are some of my go-to camp utensils for making a good meal and lasting memories at a backyard cookout or in the great outdoors. 

New Uberleben Camp Utensils

Uberleben Dark Walnut Lore Kuksa- For enjoying hot beverages, the Dark Walnut Lore Kuksa is a multipurpose game-changer! This versatile vessel is perfect for sipping, serving oatmeal, or acting as a cutting board when flipped upside down. With a rustic charm and a capacity 50% larger than a standard Kuksa, this handmade piece showcases solid hardwood, combining luxury and practicality.

Each hand-crafted Kuksa features durable mil-spec 550 paracord, holds about 10-12 fluid ounces, and a food-grade, BPA-free finish seals it. It weighs around 5-7 ounces. It’s a standout among camp utensils for good eats.

Uberleben Dark Walnut finish for their Lore Kuksa and Kanu Spoon, offering a rustic look to their stellar products.

Get ready to ditch those flimsy plastic utensils and embrace the wild with the Uberleben Kanu Spoon! This isn’t just any spoon; it’s your new adventure buddy, handcrafted from gorgeous dark walnut hardwood. It’s BPA-free and eco-friendly, so you can chow down guilt-free while respecting Mother Nature.

Plus, it comes with a stylish leather lanyard and a handy micro carabiner, perfect for clipping onto your pack. At roughly 6 inches x 1.5 inches and weighing in at less than an ounce, it’s lightweight and ready for any escapade. So, whether slurping soup around the campfire or digging into trail mix on a mountain peak, the Kanu Spoon is your trusty, stylish, and totally badass eating utensil!

Uberleben Kanu Spoon! Handcrafted from dark walnut hardwood, this BPA-free, eco-friendly spoon is your perfect adventure buddy for guilt-free dining.

Tuff Possum Gear Titanium Utensil

Ditch the flimsy plastic and grab the Tuff Possum Gear Titanium Spoon for good eats! This isn’t your grandma’s silverware—it’s crafted from indestructible, lightweight titanium, perfect for meals on a mountaintop, campfire chili, or office lunch. It’s tough enough for any adventure, and so light you’ll barely notice it. They truly make some of the best camp utensils for enjoying good eats!

A spoon and fork are standard camp utensils; the author used something new and old for variety.

TPG teamed up with @brautigamexpeditionworks to create the ULTIMATE Titanium Backpacker’s Spoon. It features a perfect grip and a longer handle to reach deep into freeze-dried meal bags. With a sleek, polished finish, cleanup is a breeze, and it won’t scratch your cookware. Best of all, a small business in the USA proudly makes this spoon!

DIY RS Antler Fork            

Several months ago, I made a friend with a rustic, unique utensil at the Georgia Bushcraft Fall Event 2024. It caught my eye, and before I could count to five, he offered it as a gift. 

The DIY RS Antler Fork was crafted from carbon steel and deer antler and fastened with epoxy for a long lifespan.

Rodney Smitherman makes excellent camp utensils for good eats if I ever saw some. Rodney finds carbon steel forks sourced from antique stores around the 1860 Civil War era.

“I love the old-style look, and I have plenty of old deer antlers around since my two sons and I have been hunting for many years,” said Rodney.

He drilled out the antler and added epoxy to hold it securely in all weather. The natural appearance and feel of antler handles are unmatched. No wonder they are so popular in the knife and gun industry. What an amazing way of using the forest’s natural resources and repurposing them for the next generation. Thank you, Rodney!

For more information, please contact Tuff Pussum Gear, Uberleben, @creek_camper!

Dry-Fire Training Accoutrements

Dry Fire Accoutrements

Dry-fire training is one of the most significant ways to make gains in pistol shooting, regardless of discipline. However, the absence of ammunition changes the dynamics of the dry-fire process, especially as it pertains to the weight of the pistol. If not careful, the differing nuances can affect the fidelity of the dry-fire experience or become counter-productive at worst—especially for more advanced shooters.

Of course, safe dry-firing calls for certain non-negotiable “rules,” like dry-firing in a safe direction and doing so in a sterilized area that is free from any trace of live ammunition. To avoid being counter-productive and retain that realistic weight of their pistol, dry-fire practitioners can either load up with snap caps, dummy rounds, or use weighted magazine inserts.

These can get chewed up and deformed after rigorous use. Sometimes, they won’t chamber smoothly anymore because of it.

Snap-Caps & Dummies

Historically, I’ve been a snap-cap user, but the problem with these is that they’re fairly expensive. The cost of 5-6 snap-cap rounds is nearly the same amount as a 50-round box of real pistol ammo. Snap caps are typically made from aluminum or plastic, and speaking from experience, it doesn’t take much for them to get chewed up.

Even if one spent the approximately $75-$90 it would cost to “fill up” a single standard 15-18 round magazine, the loaded weight wouldn’t be equivalent to that of the same magazine loaded with live rounds. Snap-caps do have some utility, but none for adding realistic weight. 

Access to a reloading setup means that dedicated dry-fire practitioners can load dummy rounds as a simple and low-tech solution that takes care of the “weight problem” in a loaded magazine. However, it also skews the margin of risk towards the wrong side.

After all, primerless and powderless dummy rounds are still loaded with actual metallic casings and real bullets. And even if painted or marked a different color, the potential for accidentally mixing up duds with live rounds only increases.

Speaking from experience, I’ve mixed those crimson-colored A-Zoom snap-caps (that I actually really like) with live training rounds in the same pouch while at the range. This paragraph isn’t an indictment of dummy rounds or snap-caps because they do provide some value.

However… 

The Tie-In To Gun Safety 

Gabe White teaching during a recent pistol course in February 2025.

I recently trained with Gabe White in one of his pistol classes. During the lecture portion of the first day before the shooting started, he reminded us of the logic behind gun safety. Gun safety as we know it works because when distilled into its core elements, it is a series of overlapping redundancies that all help to avoid negative outcomes. 

Keeping the gun pointed in a safe direction means that even if it discharges, the round won’t harm anyone or destroy anything. Keeping the finger off the trigger means that there’s no chance for the gun’s trigger to be actuated in case it isn’t pointed in a safe direction, and so on.

Negative outcomes with firearms tend to happen when those two core elements are broken. In my view, being careful to avoid dummy rounds is another layer of safe redundancy. 

S__t happens, and dummy rounds end up in weird places and vice-versa. I’m not saying to disregard dummy rounds completely, but extra care must be taken with them.  


Weight Inserts 

I formally reviewed JV-Training.com’s weighted magazine inserts a few months ago. To summarize, these inserts are 3-D printed to fill the “void” left behind by real handgun magazines absent the spring and follower. They’re also filled and sealed with lead shot that realistically mimics the loaded weight of a typical magazine.

Once correctly installed, the same base pad or floor plate contains the insert. At the top, it sits lower than the follower so as not to catch the slide and interfere with training. The filament used to print these is an eye-catching bright orange.  

When Weight Started To Matter

Consider this my personal addendum to the original review of the JV-Training magazine inserts, except that this article isn’t about the inserts themselves. Frankly, I’ve always dry-fired with a single A-Zoom snap-cap (that’s how I know that they tend to get chewed up over time fairly quickly).

However, lately, my skills have been developing to a point where the weight of an “empty” gun vs one with a realistic weight makes a difference. Especially with the “feel” of the gun and the mind-body connection during the shooting process. 

Two of my core handgun training goals for 2025 are to get as close as possible to that one-second draw from concealment and develop automaticity in transitioning between targets. For the first time in my ‘shooting career,’ I caught myself caring about the weight of the handgun at the time of draw.

It happened precisely during that recent training class with Gabe White while I was diligently drilling the Bill Drill, one of the exercises that makes up the core of his “standards.” Even before that point, I understood that it was important for shooters to maintain a realistic weight in terms of fidelity for dedicated practice, but it wasn’t until that Saturday that I truly got it.

Dry Fire
Ruger RXM during its maiden voyage.

Post-Script: A Perspective On Weight 

More so with regards to polymer-framed semi-autos, the loaded magazine is roughly ⅓ of the total weight when the gun sits in the holsters. Consider the Ruger RXM I recently got my hands on for a future review: with a Holosun HS407CX2 red dot, the empty RXM weighs 650 grams in total.

A 15-round Magpul GL9 loaded with Federal HSTs weighs approximately 232 grams, and a Glock 19-sized JV-Training.com weighted insert in a GL9 weighs 248 grams. 33% is significant. 

**I also forgot to mention in my original review that the Magpul GL9 magazines play well with these inserts. However, I recommend taping the floorplates because there’s no spring tension to keep them in place.  

Lockpicking – A Handy Skill for Preppers

Lockpicking

When we talk about prepping, there are several skills that typically come to mind, such as food preservation, self-defense, and wilderness survival. But there are also a few uncommon skills that are worth exploring. Lockpicking is definitely one of them.

There are several legitimate reasons why those who pursue a self-reliant lifestyle should consider adding lockpicking to their repertoire. Before we get into them, let me clarify something. We’re using the term lockpicking rather loosely. Rather than focusing strictly on manipulating pins and tumblers, we’re also talking about bypassing locks and similar security measures in a more general sense.

Enhancing Security

Learning lockpicking allows you to understand how locks work. This, in turn, will help you determine which locks and similar security products actually work and which ones are junk. No lock is impregnable, but the higher the quality, the longer it will take someone to circumvent it. This plays into the Delay aspect of our security plan.

Locked Out

My youngest son became interested in lockpicking at an early age. I got him a starter set of picks and a practice lock for Christmas one year, and he took to it like a duck to water. About a year later, he found himself accidentally locked out of the house. Guess who didn’t need to call for help? Today, he works in construction, and he’s found a use for this skill set a few times on the job.

Escape and Evasion

Not to be overly dramatic, human trafficking is a very real thing today. Should you be restrained or confined against your will by someone who wishes to do you harm, knowing how to get free could literally mean the difference between life and death. This might include being able to get out of handcuffs as well as open locked doors or windows.

Post-Collapse Scavenging

Okay, admittedly, this one is kind of on the fringe, but it’s still worth mentioning. In the event of a major collapse of some sort, it might become necessary to scavenge for food or other supplies. We are not advocating illegal activity. What we are suggesting is that there may come a time when foraging for supplies could become necessary for survival. Being able to do so without a “smash and grab” approach might be so much the better.

How to Learn

There are innumerable resources for learning basic lockpicking. One of the best is found at Locklab. They have a Locklab University link on their site where they offer an extensive online course in lockpicking. You can find the first page for that course here.

Another great resource is the Lockpicking Lawyer channel on YouTube. He has over 1,600 videos showcasing all sorts of different locks and how to defeat them.

You might also check to see if there are any locksport clubs or organizations in your area. Locksport is a recreational sport where participants work to defeat locks or other security measures.

Where to Buy Lockpicks?

I recommend Sparrows Lock Picks. They have top-of-the-line products that aren’t just gimmicky nonsense. Sparrows sells practice locks, individual picks as well as sets, and other bypass tools. They have excellent customer service, and they stand by what they sell.

Tuff Possum Gear is another great resource for top-notch gear. They have a range of products, including picks, as well as various ways to carry them, some more discreet than others.

The Covert Key Slip from Tuff Possum Gear. Photo credit — Tuff Possum Gear.

I am not an attorney, nor have I played one on TV. But my layman’s understanding is that owning lockpicks isn’t illegal in most states in the US. Carrying them around might be a different matter. But merely owning them and using them at home doesn’t violate the law. This site purports to have fairly current information on lockpick legalities state-by-state.

I also recommend you do your own homework, just to be certain.

War Hogg Tactical’s 1-1-1 Drill

I took a red dot-based pistol fighting class early last year with War Hogg Tactical. Rick Hogg, a 29-year special operations veteran, teaches the class primarily to law enforcement, but when a student dropped out, he was happy to fit me in. We shot a ton of drills with the red dot-equipped pistol, and I learned so much in one day that it changed how I shot. With that in mind, Mr. Hogg teaches several drills, including the 1-1-1 Drill.

The 1-1-1 Drill is quite simple and focuses on getting a shooter moving and shooting under a little bit of duress. It doesn’t require a whole ton of logistics to accomplish and can be run multiple times without going through an entire box of ammo. It’s also a drill that works multiple skills in just a few rounds.

Prepping for the Drill

You’ll need a gun, a holster, and three rounds of ammo per run. There is no specific distance or target used. I fired at seven yards and used a USPSA A-zone as my target. This drill doesn’t require a shot timer, and integrating one might be a little difficult due to its nature. As usual, you should try to go as fast as you can and make accurate hits.

You need some way to get your heart rate up. Rick often uses a Brute Force Sandbag. I used a kettlebell, but if you can run sprints, do push-ups, burpees, or whatever, that will work, too. Our goal is to get our heart rate up. I aimed to hit 130 on my heart rate as measured by my smartwatch.

Shooting the 1-1-1 Drill

You’ll start the drill by doing some kind of physical work. Do what you prefer. I did kettlebell swings, overhead presses, and one-arm clean and presses. I went hard and fast to drive the heart rate high. While I’m currently overweight, I’ve been doing lots of cardio, and it takes way too much time to get my heart rate up. Also, working out in pants was a poor idea. Who makes tactical workout shorts?

Once your heart gets to wherever you want it, you align yourself with the target and draw your firearm. The 1-1-1 Drill consists of one shot with two hands: one shot with your dominant hand and one shot with your support hand. It’s not complicated, but amping up your heart rate makes it a lot tougher.

You have to focus on the fundamentals of shooting, especially with one hand. I make sure I have a thumb up when shooting with one hand to prevent cant. I also try to remember to change the orientation of my feet to give me the most recoil control when swapping hands.

Shooting with one hand makes finding the red dot or sights unintuitive. It’s more challenging than you’d think, but that’s the point!

More and More

Shooting the 1-1-1 Drill once is fine, but I think it’s much more fun if you shoot it multiple times. Fun means punishing. Doing one round of heart-racing exercise isn’t that hard. Doing it five times makes the drill even harder. Getting your heart rate up and shooting isn’t easy, but who wants it easy?

Admittedly, I think it’s worth noting that exercise-induced fatigue doesn’t represent or resemble an adrenaline rush. While your heart rate will be high in both situations, the adrenaline dump will have different physiological effects than physical fitness effects.

However, it’s not all that unlikely you might encounter some physical exertion in a fight for your life. Police and military members are more likely to face this challenge, but you never know. You might get into a physical assault that turns into a gunfight. Being inoculated with that type of stress can be invaluable.

Move and Shoot

Mixing in physical exertion while working your one-hand skills creates a very challenging drill. It’s not easy, but it’s fun and challenging. I suck on one hand, and this year, I want to work on my weak points and get well outside of my comfort zone. Stuff like the 1-1-1 Drill makes it easy and light on the ammo budget.

A Date Night To The Range?

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This last Valentine’s Day I got to thinking about dates and date nights. I had an entire dinner date with my wife planned, but since this is GAT Daily, I thought about how I would take a date to the range. I live in a small, rural, southern town, so my wife knew how to shoot long before I ever met her. This was never a challenge for me, but I can see other shooters wondering how they can take their significant others to the range. 

I drew on my experience teaching some basic safety classes and being pretty good at planning date nights to put together a list of Dos and Don’ts for range date nights. 

Do’s 

Bring Everything 

Bring everything you need for the range. No halfsies, no splitting the ammo costs, it’s all on you. Bring the guns, bring the eye and ear pro. Don’t let your date use the range ear protection they pass around. Bring comfortable, preferably electronic ear protection. 

Take a minute and plan it out. Remember what you take to the range and then double it. Not only is it the right thing to do and the comfortable thing to do, but it makes you look like you are properly prepared for date nights. 

Respect Boundaries 

If you pitch the idea and the person doesn’t seem receptive, don’t push it too hard. Some people are scared of guns. Fear can often come from inexperience, but that’s fine. I prefer people to be scared of guns than be cavalier with them. 

A lot of people have been propagandized into thinking firearms are seemingly evil machines with a mind of their own. Being a pest about a date night to the range won’t help. Keep it up, and you’ll be that crazy gun guy/gal who dated one time. If someone doesn’t want to shoot, don’t try and force them. 

If the relationship lasts, there might be a time when they are more trusting of you and will agree. But if you meet resistance, just back off and do Painting With a Twist or something. 

Make It Fun 

When I go to the range to shoot, it’s kinda rare that I go and just have fun. I’m typically trying to train and get better, which is fun in its own right. However, if a new shooter was forced to do what I do at the range, they might not have a whole lot of fun. It’s not fun for new shooters to try and shoot Bill Drills

What’s fun is shooting a .22LR rifle or handgun into a zombie target. A date night at the range should be relaxed and fun. Don’t try to make it a training trip. The only training conducted should be safety-based. Use big targets, preferably fun targets, that are easy to hit. 

Shooting at the range can be intimidating and shooting can be tough to master. People have fun when they do well. If you have a huge target and they hit that huge target they’ll have fun. Avoid a B8 at 25 yards. Keep it fun and keep it light, both in the vibe and the recoil department. 

Dinner After

Here’s a quick tip, go to the range first and dinner after. There are a few reasons for this. First, you and your date might want to have a drink with dinner. A beer or glass of wine isn’t uncommon and you shouldn’t drink before the range. 

Second, for someone who isn’t used to shooting or has never shot before, the range and experience might be intimidating. After an intimidating experience, they might want to decompress and talk about it. It’s not traumatic, but it’s likely exciting, and this gives your date the ability to express that to you. 

Because in a survival situation you always need to be able to open your beer.

Another reason is that dinner gives you and them an out without ending the date. Maybe the range trip isn’t going well. You get a vibe that your date isn’t having fun. You can break the date and go to dinner, or your date can say something like, “Hey, I’m hungry,” as a viable hint to getting the heck out of there. 

Don’ts 

Don’t Make It A Surprise 

Date nights can be spontaneous and that can be fun, but a trip to the range shouldn’t be a surprise. Going to the range requires some preplanning. First, a person needs to be properly dressed for the occasion. Opened-toed shoes, low-cut shirts, and nice clothing aren’t the best for the range. 

Additionally, preconceptions and fears might arise and that might cause a slight panic response. Sometimes, people need to get ready for a new event. If I was on a date and they suddenly wanted to go parachuting, I might have some concerns. Allow them to think about it and be able to say no without ruining the date. 

Don’t Bring an Inappropriate Gun

Desert Eagles, shotguns, .357 Magnum revolvers, and other guns are a ton of fun to shoot…when you’re ready for that type of gun. New shooters are not. The age-old advice of using a .22LR exists for a reason. Bring a .22LR rifle or pistol and let the shooter have low recoil fun. 

These 12 gauge Shockwaves can be a lot to handle

On top of that, you could bring a full-sized 9mm handgun if your date advances past the .22LR. A 9mm can be a little more fun without it being difficult to control. Stay away from anything that involves any real recoil. I’d cut it off on anything described as snappy. 

Don’t Forget About Safety 

I mentioned safety a few times, but if you are taking someone you’re interested in to the range, it can be tough to enforce safety rules. You don’t want to be a jerk or feel like a control freak, but safety matters. Be safe, and explain the safety rules. You can enforce safety without being a jerk. Be observant and guide them through safe firearms handling. 

Date Night At the Range 

A date night to the range can be an exciting, active, and fun activity. It’s different than the classic date and a movie. I’ve provided you with the do’s and don’ts of a range date night, now it’s up to you to make it successful! 

Morakniv Offers Two Knives Built for Safety!

Morakniv offers two excellent knives for young outdoor enthusiasts: the Eldris(Left) with a plastic sheath and the Scout 39 with a leather sheath.

Two for the Kids!

Teaching kids how to use a knife can be a valuable life skill. Still, it is crucial to prioritize safety rules when doing so. Here are two knives built for safety to help with that. By setting a good example and creating a safe environment, we can help children learn to use a knife responsibly!

Built for Safety Scout

The Morakniv Scout model has returned, improved, and enhanced. The updated series of Scout 39 models features a broader selection of colors, a new sheath design, and an additional blade option to meet the needs of more advanced beginners, all while retaining essential safety features.

Mora has designed the Scout 39 Safe specifically for young, first-time users. It performs similarly to a full-size Mora, featuring safety enhancements like a cross guard to protect fingers and a rounded tip to reduce accidental punctures. These features make it one of the two knives built with young users’ safety in mind.

The Morakniv Scout 39 is used in a forehand grip to peel the bark from a stick and thin it out.

The renovated Scout models retain the original design and dimensions, with the classic Mora puukko blade shape measuring 3.3 inches long and made from stainless steel. However, unlike before, the Scout 39 now comes in additional variations instead of just the tipless “Safe” configuration.

MSRP: $54.99

LightDuty

The Morakniv Eldris knife, introduced in 2016, quickly became popular among novice and experienced bushcrafters. While not perfectly oval, its egg-like shape made it a preferred option for neck carry. Designed as a compact utility tool for bushcraft and fire-starting, the Eldris features a Scandinavian (Scandi) grind at the blade’s base, with a flatter area from belly to tip with a thinner grind, making it great for slicing food and vegetables. Additionally, its spine is sharpened to a 90-degree angle, making it practical to create sparks with a Ferro rod.

MSRP: $29.99

The Eldris LightDuty features an unsharpened spine, a subdued color scheme, and a consistent Scandi grind. Unlike the original, it has a different finish and lacks a compound grind. Still, it feels as comfortable at 5.7 inches long with a 2.3-inch, 0.8-inch (2mm) thick stainless steel drop point blade. One of these two knives is built for safety, and includes a barrel-shaped handle made of polymer rubber and coated with non-slip TPE for a secure grip. It weighs 2.8 ounces and has an ambidextrous polymer sheath for safe, inverted storage and easy transport.

MSRP: $26.99

The Apache throwing star was made with the Morakniv Eldris LightDuty and some cordage.

Train with Two Knives Built for Safety

Survival skills training is vital for everyone, equipping individuals with the necessary techniques to handle unexpected challenges in the wild. While knife skills are necessary, other skills like shelter-building, fire-starting, and foraging are equally essential. 

Just like language, outdoor skills can diminish without regular practice. Enrolling in a reputable survival school provides a solid foundation, but true mastery comes from continuous practice and learning from experience. 

To refine these skills, seek opportunities through solo trips, group camping, or hands-on workshops. This ongoing commitment enhances competence and builds confidence, ensuring readiness for real-life survival situations. Both knives built for safety will help in these survival skills training sessions!

For more information, please check out Morakniv.