Modern Rifles I Want But Can’t get

By

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May 19, 2025

I’m your typical red-blooded American male. I like guns, and I don’t like being told I can’t have something. The more you tell me no, the more I want it. Sadly, there are lots and lots of guns I can’t have. Today, I want to point out five modern rifles that I really want but can’t get. I’m not picking rifles that hardly exist or are simply restricted due to the NFA, but rifles that I could theoretically own but just can’t.

Why can’t I own them? Some are due to import restrictions. I.E., we can’t buy most guns and ammo from Russia or China. Others are because certain countries have restrictive export laws. Some companies simply don’t have the capability to make rifles for the civilian market and the logistical arm to get them across a vast ocean of red tape. There are plenty of reasons why I can’t have these modern rifles, but none are satisfactory to me.

Howa Type 20

The Howa rifles have always been fascinating to me. The Howa Type 20 is Japan’s latest assault rifle designed for the Ground Self-Defense Force. These guns were initially produced in 2019 and are replacing the Type 89. This is a modern short-stroke gas piston gun, and to the surprise of no one who follows modern rifle design, it’s an AR-18 derivative.

The Howa Type 20 is a modern rifle series with a modern rifle design. It has a collapsing and folding stock, a monolithic upper receiver, a polymer lower receiver, and a mix of Picatinny and M-LOK rails. The Type 20 series is Japan’s take on the SCAR, and I dig it. Sure, it’s not all that different from the SCAR or BREN, but I want it!

Why can’t I have it? Japan does not export firearms. They didn’t export any of the old Howas for civilian purchase, and the Howa Type 20 remains locked in that small island nation. If Weebs can get katanas, I should be able to get a Howa Type 20.

FB MSBS Grot

The Beryl AKs that Poland used have always been a favorite of mine. It’s just different enough to draw my eye. When I learned they were replacing the Beryls with more modern rifles, I dived right in. I saw the FB MSBS Grot and immediately wanted one. The MSBS brings Poland into the modern era with a modular rifle.

It’s also another AR-18 derivative short-stroke gas piston gun. (What the hell is going on here?) Anyway, the rifle has a folding and collapsing stock, a monolithic upper, an M-LOK handguard, and barrel lengths varying from 10 to 20 inches. What’s really slick with this gun is the fact that users can easily swap the lowers to make this a standard configuration rifle or a bullpup. It’s the only rifle I know of that can do that.

Why can’t I have it? We’ve gotten a few Beryl kits in the past, so they’re not totally off the table. I don’t think FB Radom has the capability to produce rifles for both Poland and the foreign civilian market. If they did, they’d have to either make large-format pistols or somehow make them 922R compliant.

Heckler & Koch HK433

Why are all the modern rifles I want derivatives of the AR-18? Or at least derivatives of rifles that are derivatives of the AR-18 gas system? The HK 433 is the bastard child of the HK G36 and HK 416. It ditches any semblance of trying to be an M4-type rifle and embraces the modern accouterments of a modern rifle.

We get the folding and collapsing stock, the monolithic upper, the M-LOK handguard, and the ability to easily swap barrels to configure the weapon the way you want it. We get ambidextrous controls and that HK quality people love. I’m not an HK cultist, and this is the first rifle they’ve produced that I’ve really wanted.

Why can’t I have it? Because I suck, and HK hates me. Okay, not really, but Germany is pretty strict on weapon exports, and HK doesn’t seem all that keen on making long guns for the civilian market. However, this could change with HK USA’s new facilities.

Kalashnikov Concern AM-17

I think the AKS-74U is one of Russia’s peak aesthetic carbines. I love the look, and when I heard it was being replaced, I wasn’t exactly surprised. The Kalashnikov Concern AM-17 aims to replace the little Kalashnikov with an uber short and modern carbine. The AM-17 is a 5.45x39mm rifle, but there is also a 9x39mm variant known as the AM-17B. The gun is decked out in modern features, including an M-LOK handguard.

The guns feature 9.1-inch barrels and are seemingly designed to be run-suppressed. This is a short-stroke gas piston system, but it’s based on the Yevgeny Dragunov MA Compact Rifle rather than the AR-18. That’s the same Dragunov behind the SVD Dragunov, another short-stroke gas piston gun. It seems to mix some vibes from the ARX160 with an ultra-short platform.

Why can’t I have it? We have had a lot of import restrictions on Russia since its initial invasion of Ukraine in 2014. I’m sure Russia would sell it if they could, since they historically aren’t shy about selling their weapons overseas.

QBZ-191

It’s completely possible that the QBZ-191 is a complete piece of crap, I’ll accept that. I want to find out for myself. This Chinese-made QBZ-191 is another short-stroke gas piston gun, but I have no idea if it’s an AR-18-like gun or not. It fires the 5.8x42mm round, but there is a T model that chambers 5.56 NATO. It vibes a bit like a Chinese-made SIG 550 series rifle.

The QBZ-191 seems to be a modern mix of features, including a monolithic upper that’s optics-ready, a Chinese module accessory system, and a few ambidextrous controls. The magazine appears to be curved like an AK and locks in like an AK series rifle. Throw a Holosun on this bad boy, and the PLA larp is ready to rock and roll.

Why can’t I have one? China and Norinco tried to arm street gangs with RPGs and machine guns, and Customs caught them. This banned most Chinese firearm imports outside of some shotguns.

Sad but True

Sadly, I don’t think we’ll get any of these guns in the country during my lifetime. Certainly no Chinese or Russian guns. The Japanese won’t sell them, but the MSBS does have a semi-auto-only version. Maybe, just maybe, I can get my hands on one with both a standard and bullpup lower. I’ll cross my fingers and expect you to do the same.

Trident 3-Function Lighter

By

Reuben Bolieu

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May 18, 2025

GAT_Trident (1) — The Trident 3-in-1 Arc lighter features a built-in LED light and storage for a Ferro rod, striker key, fireball starters, and Inferno Stick matches, providing three reliable fire-starting options.

The new for 2025 Pyro Putty Trident 3-Function Arc Lighter is here! For those of you who saw it at SHOT Show 2025, now you can have one!

Pyro Putty Trident 3-Function Lighter

Pyro What?
Trident 3-Function Arc Lighter
In the Field with the Trident Lighter
Trident 3-Function: One Tool to Do It All

Pyro What?

Pyro Putty has transformed the traditional fire plug. This product has been offered by many companies with only minor changes in color and packaging over the years. Unlike those outdated items, Pyro Putty develops, manufactures, and packages its unique, patented fire plug.

This innovative product features a moldable, sticky formulation that resists water and wind, even when engulfed in flames. It also boasts an impressive burn time considering its size and weight.

One of the standout features of Pyro Putty is its performance in extreme temperatures. It remains effective when freezing at -30°F and does not melt at 130°F. Depending on weather conditions, each small, penny-sized ball can burn for 6 to 7 minutes. It maintains a spongy, marshmallow-like texture. Users can easily attach it to a stick to create a torch for lighting pre-stacked firewood. This enhances its versatility for various uses.

The non-toxic product represents a fantastic addition to the Pyro Putty lineup. If you appreciate the traditional fire plug but seek an even better alternative, the Pyro Putty Fireballs will certainly ignite your enthusiasm. With no expiration date, you can count on it being ready whenever you need it. It is suitable for your wood stove, fireplace, cozy campfires with friends and family, or unexpected survival situations.

Trident 3-Function Arc Lighter

The Trident 3-in-1 Arc lighter basking in the radiant heat from a warm fire it created in the Rocky Mountains!

The Trident 3-in-1 Arc lighter, initially designed for military use, has undergone modifications to appeal to everyday consumers. It stands out as the first arc lighter featuring a replaceable rechargeable 700 mAh lithium-ion battery, operating at 3.7 volts. There is a built-in USB-C charging port integrated into the battery itself. This innovative design allows the battery and the charging port to be easily replaced. Each charge can produce over 700 ignitions

Additionally, the lighter includes a built-in LED light and a storage compartment. It is designed to hold a 1/4 inch by 3-inch ferro rod, a striker key, a pack of our new fireball fire starters, and a six-pack of our storm-proof Inferno Stick matches. This combination provides three reliable options for starting a fire in challenging situations.

Users can replace the battery by detaching the electronic body from the casing. This provides access to the compartment sealed with two O-rings. Each cap is also removable, allowing easy access to small jet boils or stoves without obstruction. This design makes it easy to replace the cap while ensuring a secure fit with a large O-ring seal. This enhances the lighter’s waterproof capabilities. This exceptional lighter will retail for $65.00.

Igniting wooden feather sticks with the Trident 3-in-1 Arc lighter was no challenge for the multi-use firestarting tool!

In the Field with the Trident Lighter

The setting was Cripple Creek in the Rocky Mountains of Colorado. Fire is a necessity in camp, especially in Spring. I wanted to see how the Arc Lighter would do in the wind, submerged in water, and at high altitude.

Once we established camp, I added the battery. Then, I placed the Trident 3-Function Arc Lighter in the creek for roughly 30 minutes. Upon retrieving it, the flashlight and Arc Lighter worked well. Fire was the next priority, and I gathered cottonwood inner bark for tinder and kindling.

The author submerged the Trident 3-in-1 Arc lighter with no failure during the regular operations.

I made several feather sticks for the fire, mainly to test the power of the Trident Arc Lighter. This trip and location were the rare occasions I’d pick up wood from the ground. It’s a Southwest thing. After processing the tinder, I tried both a thin and a thicker piece of cottonwood bark. Each piece of inner bark ignited fast.

Feather sticks were a different story. I make mine thin enough to take a spark from a Ferro rod. However, would they work with the Arc Lighter? Yup!

Cottonwood inner bark was easy to ignite with the Trident 3-in-1 Arc lighter!

It took me about two seconds to ignite the thinly carved wood shavings with the Trident 3-Function Arc Lighter. Bravo, Pyro Putty!

Trident 3-Function: One Tool to Do It All

In summary, Pyro Putty is 100% developed, made, and packaged in the USA. It brings a modern twist to a classic product that ensures you’re always prepared for any lighting needs. The Trident 3-Function Arc Lighter is a one-tool-do-it-all for the serious camper and family ready for whatever life throws at them!

Throwing a Spotlight – Streamlight’s Megastream USB

By

Jim Cobb

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May 17, 2025

Those who know me are well aware of my affinity for Streamlight. I’ve been a fan of their products for years, and I own several. When I learned about their new Megastream USB, I had to get one.

Streamlight Megastream USB

Megastream USB Specs
Megastream USB Performance
One Drawback

This author owns more than a couple Streamlight products.

Megastream USB Specs

This is a pretty powerful light in a fairly small package. On the highest setting, it throws 1,800 lumens and 26,000 candela with a 322-meter beam. To understand the difference between candela and lumens, check out our article here.

You can scale the light back to Medium for 500 lumens and 7,200 candela, or down to Low for 150 lumens and 2,100 candela. A push-button tail switch cycles through the modes. One push for High, two for Medium, three for Low.

The Megastream USB is powered by a lithium-ion rechargeable battery pack that, as the name would suggest, is charged via USB. A metal sleeve on the flashlight slides down to expose the charging port. When you plug in the cord, a tiny red light indicates that it’s charging. It will turn green when the battery is fully charged. You can also remove the battery and charge it separately, if that’s your preference.

The sleeve pulls back to expose the USB-C charge port.

The light measures 5.3 inches long and weighs a modest 5.4 ounces. It comes with a USB-C cord and belt holster. It’s equipped with a removable pocket clip.

Megastream USB Performance

This is a very bright light. It works great for spotlighting strange noises in the backyard, that sort of thing. There is enough overspill that you’ll be lighting up much of the yard at once.

While it’s a bit large for true EDC, it isn’t all that cumbersome. I suppose it depends on the available real estate in your pocket or on your belt. I prefer the former to the latter.

I’ve used the light quite a bit over the last several weeks. It’s come along on numerous nighttime dog walks and spent a fair bit of time searching for critters big and small out behind the house. It has an impressive range, especially for a pocket-sized light.

One Drawback

There is one drawback to the Megastream USB that is worth noting. If you hold it in your hand so that your thumb is operating the push button tail switch, you can inadvertently open the charge cover sleeve. What happens is that when you press the button, you’re effectively pushing the light forward a bit in your hand. As that happens, because you’re gripping the body of the light, the charge cover sleeve stays put as the body slides forward, opening the charge port.

Personally, I tend to use my index finger, rather than my thumb, to turn the light on and off. As a result, I’m gripping the light in a different way, and the sliding sleeve doesn’t give me any trouble.

Despite this issue, I still highly recommend the Streamlight Megastream USB. It’s a welcome addition to the illumination arsenal.

As of this writing, it retails for just under $100 at Amazon.

How To Bring Back the Taurus Curve

By

Travis Pike

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May 17, 2025

As a fan of cheap and weird guns, I had to buy the Taurus Curve when I saw it. I can’t remember how much I paid off the top of my head, but it was less than it cost to take my wife out for a good dinner. I bought the Curve as a bit of a joke, thinking it’s an interesting oddity, but maybe, just maybe, the idea isn’t all that bad.

What’s the Taurus Curve?

Rethinking the Curve
How To Fix It
A Curve Ball

If you’re unfamiliar with the Taurus Curve, it came out in 2015 and embraced that pocket .380 mindset. The Taurus Curve took things a step further by curving the frame. The idea was to create a micro-sized pistol that could be carried by IWB and conform to the body’s natural curves. Obviously, the design was ambidextrous, but Taurus promised left- and right-handed variants.

As far as I can tell, only right-handed variants were produced. Taurus also reduced every edge and melted every corner to make the gun exceptionally snag-free. They removed external controls. You have a trigger, and that’s it. There is no slide or magazine release. To remove the magazine, pinch the baseplate on both sides and pull it out.

Taurus even ditched traditional sights. Instead, we have the Integrated Bore-Axis sighting system, a white cross on the back of the gun. It also came with an integrated laser and a white light. These are part of the frame.

The white light is pitiful. It might be 40 lumens on a good day, but it can’t light up one side of my closet from the other. The laser is a laser and can be zeroed, but it still has all the problems all visible lasers have.

It’s an oddity.

The gun was largely considered a failure. Not only was the design odd, but it was also frightfully unreliable. I can rarely get through a single magazine without a failure of some type, and the magazine only holds six rounds.

Rethinking the Curve

I shot the Curve a bit, made fun of it, and eventually put it away and forgot about it. I recently cleaned out my safe and ran into that familiar orange box. The plastic box is also curved, which shows the Taurus is committed to the bit.

I never carried the Curve, but it was carry-ready. The gun had a pocket clip installed on the slide and a trigger cover with a lanyard that ties to your belt or belt loop. You didn’t need a holster, and you could still carry the gun safely.

When I first strapped the Curve on, I realized the appeal. Maybe Taurus was spending too much time with KelTec when they created the Curve. I wasn’t just carrying the gun. It felt more like I was wearing it. I realized I wasn’t the first to say that. In fact, Will Dabbs of American Handgunner had the same sentiment. You wore the Curve; you didn’t carry it. I read many reviews from when the gun was released, and the general consensus says it was super easy to carry.

I started experimenting with the Curve and everything my closet could throw at me. It concealed everything I had with ease. Athletic clothes, sweatpants, hell, even pajama pants hid the thing. I’m convinced I could conceal the Curve if I owned a Speedo.

There is smart groundwork here, but it needs a few fixes.

How To Fix It

First, it needs to work. Mine chokes a lot, and that needs to be addressed first. If we can get a Curve that works, we can start there. First, get rid of .380 and rechamber it to .32 ACP. From a barrel this short, the difference between .32 ACP and .380 ACP is minor in all fields except recoil.

It has half the recoil of .380 ACP but still penetrates to the proper depth necessary to reach the vitals. We get at least one extra round in the magazine, and the gun can be smaller and lighter.

Let’s ditch the light and maybe the laser. The laser is completely optional, in my opinion, but I can see why some folks would like it. I would like a set of nubs at the top, at the very least, something like the KelTec P32. It’s small but works well enough. I’m even down to try something like the SIG P365-SAS sights.

Finally, it seems a bit bulkier than necessary. We can make it a little smaller, right? The frame seems very shell-like. This isn’t necessary, but I’d love to see the frame trimmed down a bit.

This would give us a super small, super easy-to-carry gun that’s also easier to shoot and hopefully it’s reliable.

A Curve Ball

The Taurus Curve Gen 2 that I’ve created in my brain could be a capable defensive pistol. It offers us a controllable, lightweight, and super-easy-to-carry gun. It wouldn’t be an everyday carry for me, but a gun I turn to when I need to carry as discreetly as possible.

Will it happen? Probably not. But never say never.

Arise Manufacturing’s Aegis Red-Dot Shroud System

By

P.E. Fitch

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May 16, 2025

Arise Manufacturing Aegis Shrouds Red-Dots

Nowadays, most clued-in shooters will agree that mounting micro red-dot sights on handgun slides serves as a force multiplier. It augments both the shooter’s and the pistol’s basic capabilities. No, I’m not about to write another in favor of red-dots article, because I’ve already written that last year–and I am very much in favor of them!

Protecting Your Optic with the Aegis Shroud

I think most can agree on the consensus that with the right training and understanding of its use, the slide-mounted red-dot sight can serve as a cheat code.

In spite of the great benefits they provide, carrying a handgun with a mounted red-dot does come with the risk of damaging said optic from either dropping the pistol or bumping into a hard surface. Especially if the optic itself is on the larger side and/or it tends to ride on an open belt holster that sits on some kind of hanger, slightly away from the body. (Think either competition rig or Safariland 6000 series “bucket”).

To prevent damage and protect reflex sights from becoming duds, certain red-dot designs (the Leupold DeltaPoint Pro comes to mind) are organically designed with an outer metal shroud. I’m also aware that SIG-Sauer offers specific shrouds that are compatible with some of their own Romeo series red-dot optics.

However, Texas-based Arise Manufacturing is a notable outfit that provides a third-party, sophisticated, comprehensive, combined red-dot protective shroud and mounting plate solution for some of the industry’s most popular “big window” red-dot sights. This includes the Trijicon SRO and the Holosun HS507 Comp.

Arise MFG has been diligently developing different shrouds and newer plates for additional makes and models. But I’ve installed two of their classic offerings on two of my pistols—my Glock 34, which currently wears a Trijicon SRO, and my Canik Rival-S mounted with a Holosun HS507 Comp.

Currently, most of Arise Manufacturing’s plates serve either the Trijicon RMR pattern footprint or the Leupold DeltaPoint Pro footprint.

The Arise Manufacturing Aegis System

Fundamentally, Arise’s Aegis System consists of a proprietary optics-mounting plate. It accommodates a specially shaped protective steel shroud over the optic for the purpose of providing an external barrel to protect the optic from impacts or blunt force.

Arise Manufacturing currently offers shrouds for the Trijicon SRO, Holosun 407/507, 507 COMP, Primary Arms Optics RS-15, Vortex Defender ST, and Vortex Defender XL. All shrouds are precision machined to allow clear access to the power/brightness buttons in addition to the dials. So, it does not interfere with the regular operation of the red-dot sight itself.

On the Holosun-specific shrouds sitting in front of me, even the right-side battery tray is accessible without having to remove the shroud.

Aegis mounting plates are machined from aircraft-grade aluminum while also being designed thicker than customary for standard optics plates. The extra material serves to provide enough space needed to drill and tap the four extra screw holes that exist to anchor the shroud in place.

Because they easily screw into place over those four corner edges of the Aegis plate, Aegis shrouds are designed to be easily replaceable. Arise Manufacturing officially recommends that if a shroud takes an impact large enough to dent or bend it, that it be replaced with a new one.

Aegis System Installation

Installing the Arise Manufacturing Aegis System is quite straightforward. Anyone with the skills to install and mount a standard optics plate and red-dot to a pistol slide can easily install the Aegis system. Don’t forget your thread locker and torque wrench!

Arise Manufacturing deserves some kudos for not only clearly labeling everything but also for including extra useful items like T8 and T10 Torx bits, paint pens for witness marks, and small vials of blue Loctite threadlocker. Their packaging is also quite attractive and is indicative of deliberateness, effort, and attention to detail.

Both of the Aegis kits I installed on either a Glock 34 or a Canik Rival-S showed signs of quality and a clean fit and finish. Keep in mind that when installing the Aegis kit, it is imperative to set aside all other hardware and screws and use only the hardware that Arise includes as it is specific to all of the Aegis’ components.

Shooting With The Aegis System

I’ve done most of my shooting with the Trijicon SRO-equipped Glock 34, starting back in early December when I attended a Glock Sport Shooting Foundation match south of San Antonio.

Post GSSF match, I carried this Aegis-equipped Glock in an AIWB holster some. I also brought it to The Way Forward’s Defensive Performance Handgun course, where I had another chance to shoot vigorously while pushing my own limits of performance in training.

Shooting-wise, I really don’t have much to add. The Aegis system is passively protective by nature. It stays out of the way and allows the end-user to shoot with their dots as they normally would. It functions as a guard to protect from blunt impacts.

Even though the Aegis specific optics plate is thicker and thus makes the optic sit slightly taller, the delta in height was imperceptible. In fairness, I seem to be shooting a different handgun and optic combination every other week. So, it would be hard for me to complain about the nuances in dot presentation with this system installed.

After shooting several hundred rounds aggressively in The Way Forward’s intensive 2-Day Defensive Performance Handgun course and at the GSSF match last December, I noticed no issues with the Aegis system on my Glock 34. Mind you, I properly torqued everything and applied thread locker as instructed, and nothing has budged.

For those interested, I run the standard factory RSA on my Gen5 Glock 34 and shoot standard pressure 115-grain or 124-grain range ammo. The “extra weight” of the Aegis shroud was no cause for concern. (I’ll admit I was curious about this, as I load my 115-grain training and practice ammo on the lighter side.)

Carrying An Aegis-Equipped Handgun

The Aegis system would not cause any issues when carried on an open holster off a hanger that can accommodate slide-mounted optics. Especially those holsters that are designed to be completely independent from the red-dot.

Due to my needs and habits, I tend to work from concealment almost exclusively. So, I made it a point to carry my Aegis-equipped Glock 34 in one of my AIWB holsters. I noticed that the shroud and screws had a tendency to dig in a little into the flab of my waistline. On the one hand, it’s not a critical issue because extra width from both edges of the shroud is something to expect. On the other hand, proper concealment is highly individual.

Depending on the person and their body, the propensity to print against a cover garment may or may not be exaggerated by the extra thickness of the shroud. It’s something to be aware of, that’s all.

The “Crumple Zone”

I am never one to deliberately abuse gear for the sake of a review, so I didn’t run over any Aegis shrouds with an armored personnel carrier. Gear is expensive, and there is no need for me to f___ around and find out and break it. Given how thick Aegis shrouds are, I am positive they will reasonably protect optics from most ordinary bumps, shocks, drops, and falls.

If mounted properly, Aegis shrouds are designed to leave enough clearance between their inner surfaces and the outer housing of the optics. In a sense, this spacing serves as a potential “crumple zone.”

A view from the rear which not only shows the thickness of the shrouds but their “crumple zone” gaps relative to the optics themselves.

Even though I did not use the Aegis system with a Safariland 6000 series holster, Arise informed me that the shrouds are mostly compatible. A handful of holster models may require slight modification.

The Takeaway

Arise Manufacturing prices the full Aegis kit at $169 retail. It’s not exactly cheap, and I’m sure readers might be wondering if it is worth it. I cannot make that choice for anyone. It would be wise for the end-user to consider the totality of their circumstances, the optic they are shooting with, and how they shoot.

For an exposed open-emitter red-dot sight like an SRO on a working beat cop’s belt holster, or maybe that serious competitor tearing up the local USPSA matches every weekend, the additional protective benefit of the Arise Manufacturing Aegis Shroud system makes some sense. Doubly so when the optic in question is an expensive model.

For the fairweather casual shooter whose handgun lives in a safe and only rides to and from the occasional range trip? Maybe they don’t really need it.

Think of it this way–what kind of phone case do you personally put on your phone? Apply that logic to your red-dot sight and decide accordingly.

For more detailed information about the different handgun models and optics compatible with the Arise Manufacturing Aegis Shroud system, please consult Arise’s website directly. Arise Manufacturing’s products are 100% American-made. They also source American-made raw materials and hardware and incorporate them into their finished products. Likewise, Arise Manufacturing stands behind its products with a solid warranty.

Work Sharp: Pro Precision Adjust Elite

By

Reuben Bolieu

-

May 16, 2025

GAT-WS_Elite (1) — The Work Sharp Pro Precision Adjust Elite Sharpener offers angles from 15° to 30° and features a digital meter, so you can easily customize your edge!

Alright, ditch the dull blades because the Work Sharp Pro Precision Adjust Elite Sharpener is here to seriously up your sharpening game! This ain’t your grandpa’s rusty old stone; this sharpener actively puts pro-level edges on all your knives without needing years of practice!

Pro Precision Adjust Elite

The Work Sharp Pro Precision Adjust Elite Sharpener is built for knife enthusiasts who demand precision and reliability. Whether you’re sharpening kitchen knives, hunting blades, or everyday carry tools, this system easily ensures razor-sharp edges.

Its solid metal construction keeps your knife steady and is developed for ultimate control. It features a digital angle indicator, while the adjustable angle system (15° to 30°) lets you fine-tune for different blade types. The Precision Adjust Elite System stands out with its impressive 10-abrasive system (1-inch x 6 inches).

The kit includes a variety of diamond plates ranging from coarse grits (220 to 800) and ultra-fine diamonds (1200 to 3000) for comprehensive sharpening. Additionally, it features a ceramic hone and a leather strop to achieve a polished finish. Whether bringing a dull blade back to life or fine-tuning an already sharp edge, this kit has you covered!

Designed for convenience, the rugged carry case keeps everything organized and portable, making it easy to sharpen on the go or store neatly in your workspace. Whether you’re a chef, outdoorsman, or knife collector, this sharpener delivers precision, durability, and ease of use in one elite package.

Ready to take your sharpening game to the next level? The whole system carries an MSRP of $449.95.

Work Sharp Setup and Use

Getting this sharpener up and running takes some time, but it’s not too tough. The instructions are solid. I found myself watching a few videos to get the hang of it. This one was the trickiest to set up out of all the sharpeners I’ve ever owned. However, trust me, it’s totally worth it.

So, don’t let the setup process scare you off! Spend some time getting to know the Work Sharp Pro Precision Adjust Elite Sharpener and how it works. Once you do, you’ll come to appreciate it. Read the guides, check out the videos, and you’ll be a pro. Once you nail it, you’ll feel pretty proud of yourself!

Pro Precision Adjust Elite: Nailing the Angle

I got the gist of the mechanics, but wasn’t always sure of the manufacturer’s sharpening angle. Sometimes this info is on their website. Often, it’s not. I reached out to Work Sharp with a question: What do you suggest for someone who doesn’t know the exact angle/degree to sharpen a knife on the Work Sharp Pro Precision Adjust Elite Sharpener?

“If you don’t know the exact angle to sharpen your knife, a good rule of thumb is to match the existing edge. On the Work Sharp Pro Precision Adjust, you can do this by marking the bevel with a black permanent marker and lightly touching it to the abrasive. You’ve found the correct angle if the marker wears away evenly along the entire bevel. If not, adjust until it does. It’s a simple trick, but super effective—and helps ensure you’re not unintentionally reprofiling your edge.“-Kyle Owens- Work Sharp

The clamp support is excellent for larger knives, eliminating wobble and providing a solid workspace in the Work Sharp Pro Precision Adjust Elite system.

This outstanding advice from Work Sharp helped me figure out the angle on several knives.

Quirks of the Pro Precision Adjust Elite

After sharpening several knives with the unit, I noticed something odd. Again, it could be user error, but it was consistent across the board. Once I clamped the knife in and tightened it, I used the digital angle indicator on the countertop surface. I zeroed it out, then attached it to the sharpening rod.

I dialed in 20° and started sharpening from hilt to edge. Once I felt the burr on the underside, I turned the knife over using the red lever. It wasn’t doing much. I took out the digital angle indicator and took a reading to find the angle was 19.50° or 19.75°. It seems I had to adjust it every time I flipped it to stay ahead of any variance.

The Work Sharp Pro Precision Adjust Elite Sharpener includes a convenient knife attachment that uses magnets to keep smaller blades steady while you sharpen with your other hand.

I used a very narrow-bladed CRKT CEO in the regular clamp since it isn’t a small knife. After much sharpening, I noticed the diamond plates were grinding the clamp. Even with its 3-inch-long blade, I should have used the small blade attachment, which is usually for smaller knives. However, the CEO is narrow, so I soon figured it out. This was user error!

Finale

Everybody has that one knife that they can rarely get sharp. Mine was the KA-BAR State & Union lockback (S35VN steel). I used three other sharpening systems with zero luck. The Work Sharp Pro Precision Adjust Elite Sharpener worked like a pro! I used the 220 to 800 and then ultra-fine 1200 diamond. I went to the ceramic hone 20x on each side and ended with 10 strops of the leather.

Done! Razor sharp, shaving hair, and slicing packaging peanuts in short order. Bravo, Work Sharp!

For more information, please check out Work Sharp!

The Return of the Taurus Model 58

By

Tim Stetzer

-

May 15, 2025

Taurus announced the launch of the Taurus 58, a lightweight, high-capacity .380 ACP auto. It’s really a relaunch, though, because the original Model 58s were out back in the early 1990s. The Model 58 is designed for everyday carry.

The Model 58

The Taurus Model 58 is an aluminum frame .380 ACP pistol that looks like a shrunken-down Model 92. It has the same open-style slide and fat body aluminum frame. It accepts a capacious 15-round double-stack magazine. It’s very close to a Glock 19 in size. Just a touch bigger in all dimensions. A touch heavier, too, at 29.6 ounces empty. Although keep in mind this is an all-metal pistol, not polymer like the Glock.

The Model 58 is a double/single-action design. It has an ambidextrous frame-mounted safety and decocker like its big brother, the Model 92. The front sight is integral to the slide, and the rear sight is drift-adjustable for windage.

The new Model 58 is available with either a matte black or stainless finish. Grips are checkered black plastic and look to be a lot slimmer than the wood panels that came with the very first Model 58s back in the 90s.

Who is the Model 58 Meant For?

I can see some folks wondering why they might want a .380 that’s the size of a 9mm Glock 19. It’s a fair question, but I think it has a niche. My buddy had one of the original Model 58s, and I have to say, it was a joy to shoot. Being a fairly big gun for a .380, you had plenty to hold on to. The weight and 4-inch barrel made it a very soft shooter as well. It wasn’t quite like shooting a .22, but it was close.

For folks who are recoil sensitive, it would be a great choice. It’s not a bad choice for anyone who wants a gun that’s easy to shoot, fast, and still keeps hits on target. .380 ACP ammo has come a long way since the 90s, too, and there are some great defense rounds available.

The 4-inch barrel should give you a bit of a velocity boost over most pocket .380’s as well. Not to mention that you have 15 rounds on tap. Taurus used to make a 20-round extended mag for the 58’s, and I hope that makes a comeback. So while it’s not the subcompact that many of us associate with a .380, I think the Taurus 58 does have a useful niche. Plus, it’s kinda neat and should be fun to shoot.

Taurus Model 58 Specs:

Caliber	.380 AUTO
Capacity	15 Rounds
Front Sight	Fixed
Rear Sight	Drift adjustable
Magazines Included	2
Action Type	DA/SA
Barrel Length	4.00 In.
Overall Length	7.20 In.
Overall Height	5.59 In.
Overall Width	1.61 In.
Overall Weight	29.60 Oz. (Unloaded)
Twist Rate	1:16-in RH
Grooves	6
Frame Material	Aluminum
Frame Finish	Matte Black or Aluminum
Slide Material	Alloy Steel
Slide Finish	Matte Black or Stainless Steel
Barrel Material	Stainless Steel
Barrel Finish	Matte Black or Matte Stainless
Safety	Decocker
Manual Safety	Thumb Safety
MSRP	$604.99

How I’d Design the Beretta 20X and 30X Pistols

By

Travis Pike

-

May 15, 2025

I’m a tip-up fan—a downright fanatic. I complained about the cost of classes while purchasing another Beretta 950 because it’s in .22 Short, and I don’t have that one. Beretta unleashed two tip-up pistols in as many years. The 20X and 30X make up the modern tip-up pistol genre. With that in mind, I didn’t fully agree with many of Beretta’s changes, but I understood them.

What I Like About The 20X and 30X

First, I just like tip-up guns. They have some serious charm, and I love the design. I also like .32 ACP and .22LR pocket pistols, so they scored high in my favorite niches. I like a lot of the changes Beretta made. Some are obvious, like the larger, easier-to-use sights that make these guns exceptionally accurate.

I like the new flat-faced trigger with its lighter overall pull and the relocated magazine release. Not to mention, Beretta released suppressor-ready variants with suppressor-height sights. The 30X Tomcat’s frame redesign was welcomed. The old 3032s had to use low-pressure ammo, and anything that exceeded 129-foot pounds could crack the frame.

That’s not a problem anymore. I appreciate that Beretta seems to know that the primary consumers of these guns buy them for their charm. Therefore, they make them look fantastic. While that might be the case, I’d love to pocket-carry my 20X or 30X pistols, but the current configurations are a bit tough.

Problems With the 20X and 30X

Beretta also made these guns bigger, more ergonomic, and easier to shoot. They are too big to be easily concealed in a pocket like the previous generations of these guns. They are shooters rather than deep-carry guns. With that said, Beretta has released several variants of the gun, and I think there is room for one more—one I’d call the Deep Cover.

How I’d Fix the 30X and 20X

All my fixes would be simple to implement and could reasonably be done with existing Beretta 20X and 30X pistols. I have a few ideas on how Beretta could make the Tomcat and Bobcat pocket rockets again.

Bob the Hammer

I love that these guns are micro-sized DA/SA pistols. I love DA/SA guns, but for pocket carry, I think Beretta should bob the hammer and convert the guns to DAO. The double-action trigger is enough for a pocket gun, with the lighter, smoother trigger.

Ditching the hammer would reduce a snag point and size just a bit. However, it would also likely help improve reliability with the 20X guns. I’m not the only person with a 20X who gets the occasional light strike when the gun fires in single action, only to have the round fire when you revert to the double action trigger pull.

Go back to Flush Fitting Magazines.

The extended magazine allows the guns to hold one extra round. More ammo is nice, and the longer, extended magazines act as a pinky rest, which is fine. However, it also adds almost an inch to the gun’s height. The swap would be as easy as changing baseplates. It would make the gun easier to conceal and less detectable in your pocket.

Much Thinner Grips

The G10 grips are quite nice. They feel great, look great, and provide that Beretta flair we know and love. However, they also make the gun excessively wide. We must accept the wider frame to prevent the 30X Frame from cracking, but it can be thinner. It also appears the 20X and the 30X frames are identical, or at least close. Producing one frame likely saves money, and I get it.

However, ditching the grip panels and replacing them with cheaper, thinner grip panels seems like a much better idea to me. Thinner, smoother grips make the gun more concealable and less sticky when drawn from a pocket holster.

The Undercover Models

These are my theoretical fixes to turn the 20X and 30X guns back into the pocket pistols we know and love. As the owner of the 20X and 30X, as well as the older 21A and 3032, I can say the size difference is massive. It makes a big difference when shoving the gun into your pocket.

I don’t think Beretta should abandon making these guns acceptable pocket pistols. With a few dedicated changes, we could have a fantastic and stylish pair of pocket rockets.

Modern Bowie Knife Revival

By

Reuben Bolieu

-

May 14, 2025

GAT_Bowie_revamp (1) — The Auxiliary Manufacturing Pocket Bowie XL is a modern twist on the classic Bowie. It has an AEB-L steel blade and a black stonewash finish, perfect for everyday use.

From the Old West to now, the classic Bowie hasn’t gone anywhere. These two modern Bowie knife revival blades are only a part of the big movement to recreate the Bowie knife pattern with contemporary materials.

Bowie Knife Revival

Heck, even the famed Rambo knives drew inspiration from a Bowie knife. Several production and custom knife companies have kept the timeless pattern from taking a backseat. From small neck knives to fixed blades of all sizes and materials, the Bowie knife isn’t going anywhere!

In his take on the revival of Bowie knives, Michael Jarvis of Auxiliary Manufacturing says, “I find that creatives will often look to the past for inspiration. Especially in a field like knife making, which is so rich in tradition. Combined with the American manufacturing spirit, the Bowie is a natural choice, even in its modern adaptations.”

Pocket Bowie XL

Several months ago, GAT Daily featured a review of the Auxiliary Manufacturing Pocket Bowie EDC.

Presenting the Auxiliary Manufacturing Pocket Bowie XL. It’s a sleek and modern twist on the classic American Bowie, designed to be your trusty sidekick for everyday adventures. This compact, pocket-friendly knife is as tough as it looks, ready to tackle any task. It features a razor-sharp Bowie blade with a stylish black stonewash finish, crafted from high-performance AEB-L steel.

The Auxiliary Manufacturing Pocket Bowie XL is a compact, tough knife featuring a razor-sharp Bowie blade made from high-performance AEB-L steel and a stylish black stonewash finish, perfect for everyday adventures.

Grip it and go with the meticulously sculpted black G-10 handle that’s lightweight yet grippy, ensuring you maintain control even in challenging situations. Plus, the durable Kydex sheath with a belt loop means you can carry it conveniently. The reversible belt clip offers flexibility whether left or right-handed.

Be prepared with the Auxiliary Manufacturing Pocket Bowie for anything life throws your way—because who doesn’t want a trusty blade by their side? This knife is 100% worthy of the title, modern Bowie knife revival. MSRP:$299.00

The Thunder Bowie Knife

Meet your new favorite larger outdoor companion: the Thunder Bowie Knife from Bear Forest Knives. Think of it as The Power Bowie. With an impressive 15-inch Bowie-style blade, this knife slices, batons, and chops with unmatched agility. Crafted from a 10-inch High Carbon Steel blade boasting a Rockwell Hardness of 58-59, it’s tough and easy to sharpen, too!

The innovative design features a fuller and swedge that lightens the load without sacrificing balance. Its High Saber grind means you’re ready to tackle anything that comes your way.

The Thunder Bowie has an overall length of 15 3/8 inches and a robust thickness of .187 inches. The 90-degree spine adds versatility, while the Rock Tumbled Acid Wash looks ruggedly handsome!

With an overall length of 15 3/8 inches and a robust thickness of .187 inches, this knife means business. The 90-degree spine adds versatility, while the Rock Tumbled Acid Wash finish gives it a rugged aesthetic that stands out from the crowd. The handle looks and feels excellent, featuring an hourglass shape and micarta scales for a secure grip, even in slippery conditions.

The Thunder Bowie has a sturdy JRE Industries leather sheath—your trusty sidekick that protects it from the elements. Plus, it’s made right here in the USA, ensuring top-notch quality from start to finish.

So gear up and get ready to experience the thunder. This unrivaled Bowie knife revival will surpass your expectations!

Think of the Thunder Bowie Knife as your Power Bowie. This knife features a remarkable 15-inch Bowie-style blade, making it ideal for slicing, chopping, and batoning.

Conclusion

I can’t wait to see the next big movie or show that highlights this time-tested classic pattern. Just like the Goonies say, “Never say die,” the same goes for the Bowie knife!

For more information, check out Auxiliary Manufacturing and Bear Forest Knives!

The .32 Rifle – Why We Need One

By

Travis Pike

-

May 14, 2025

As the resident .32 aficionado and subject matter enthusiast, I own a few dozen .32 handguns, but I want a .32 rifle. Specifically, I want a .32 pistol caliber carbine. That sounds a bit silly, and technically, the .30 Super Carry Hi-Point is a .32 PCC, but not the one I want. I want a low-powered, low-profile .32 rifle, and I have reasons!

Before we get into my reasons, let’s discuss which .32. I’m open to this. I’d like a rifle in .32 ACP or .32 S&W Long. I’d settle for a .32 H&R Magnum if it got me the gun. I’d be happy with a lever action, a bolt action, or, in the .32 ACP case, a semi-auto .32 rifle. I’m not exactly too crazy about the details.

You’re likely still wondering why exactly I want a .32 rifle.

The Benefits of a .32 Rifle

I see a .32 rifle being handy for shooting small game, varmints, and similar predators. It’s a bigger, heavier round and would more reliably stop things like rabbits, weasels, and nutria with a single shot. As a rabbit-hunting enthusiast, my options are a shotgun or a .22 of some sort. What started all this was a poorly placed shot on a rabbit.

I took the kids rabbit hunting this fall, and they placed a shot on a rabbit that sent it running. I would’ve thought it was a miss if I hadn’t found blood. So, we had to chase this thing down and finish it off. I felt terrible. I am a big advocate for single-shot stops on any animal. A .32 caliber offers me rifle range but more human error correction than the .22 LR or Magnum.

Optimistically, we’d all make headshots all the time, but sometimes that’s impossible. A little miss makes a big difference on small targets. I could see a .32 ACP or .32 S&W Long working quite well for killing medium-sized game. Additionally, the rifle can be tiny and lightweight. A .32 rifle in .32 ACP or S&W Long/H&R Magnum would be a great small game getter and pest remover, but could also be shot by young shooters.

Recoil wouldn’t be a problem, and .32 caliber rounds are fairly accurate. For my purposes, this would be a better option than .22LR or Magnum for things like rabbits, weasels, and anything smaller than coyotes but bigger than squirrels. It would also be a super-easy-to-suppress cartridge, which is great for hunting.

The Downsides

This would be a super niche rifle with expensive ammo. A .32 Rifle needs .32 ammo, and the various .32 caliber cartridges are costly. They cost more than 9mm and aren’t as useful as 9mm. The low demand and expensive ammo would be why this will never be produced. A .32 rifle sounds cool, but there isn’t a market for it. Is it possible for me to get one custom-built?

Maybe, but it’s going to be an expensive endeavor. Luckily, there are some options. They aren’t the best options, but let’s look at the existing options.

Existing .32 Rifles

Henry makes a .327 Federal Magnum Lever gun that could shoot .32 H&R Magnum and .32 S&W Long. However, it’s a bit heavier than I’d like. Also, when firing those shorter rounds, they must jump through some unrifled chamber, which could detract from the accuracy I need for tiny little animals.

There are two rare and obscure.32 ACP semi-auto rifles. We have the Armi Jager AP74, an AR lookalike that fired the .32 ACP. A few guns pop up in the States every now and then. I want one. Another is the Pre-WWI Tirmax semi-auto carbine, but good luck finding one of those.

Other than that, it seems like our hands are empty.

Ad-Hoc Solutions

Besides spending a ton of money to make a custom option or trying to hunt down a rare gun, we can try to find an ad-hoc solution. There are a few, and the first are adapters made to fire .32 ACP from .308, .303, and 7.62x54R. These are cheap and cumbersome to fire more than a round out of, but they work. It’s a shame the accuracy kind of sucks, which makes it tough to use for hitting small game.

Another option is a shotgun adapter. A company called Chaszel makes rifled adapters that fit into a shotgun barrel. I’ve purchased a .410 to .32 S&W Long adapter, which works surprisingly well. I’ll have a review up sooner rather than later. This seems to be the best way to make a .32 rifle. It’s affordable, accurate, and simple. All we get is a single-shot option in this case, but it is what it is.

A .32 rifle is a niche thing, but it’s an open market now.

Outdoor Element Brings the Heat: Checking Out the Scout Feather and Fiber Light

By

Jim Cobb

-

May 13, 2025

I’ve been moderately aware of Outdoor Element for a while, but hadn’t really checked out their product line. Recently, one of the company founders asked me to try out a couple of their products. A few days later, a package arrived with their Scout Feather knife and Fiber Light fire starter. So far, color me impressed.

Scout Feather

The Scout Feather is one of Outdoor Element’s most popular knives. It’s small enough to qualify as an EDC option, but large enough to do actual work. It’s 6.58 inches long with a 2.65-inch blade. The handle is slim and contoured, so it really locks into your grip. The full tang construction is VG10 steel and features a ¼-inch hex driver at the end of the handle. An attached lanyard has a small signal whistle, which is a nice touch.

Outdoor Element didn’t skimp on the sheath. It is a hard plastic construction, and the knife locks in tight, with no wiggle at all. A steel clip will keep the sheath in place wherever you carry it. There is a small V-notch sharpener to touch up the blade in the field. Along the other side of the sheath is an attached ferrocerium rod.

The Scout Feather’s spine is sharp enough to scrape sparks from that ferro rod, and it does so incredibly well. I took a few quick swipes at the rod to remove paint, then it started spraying sparks in earnest.

Fiber Light

Fiber Light is Outdoor Element’s all-natural fire starter. It consists of finely ground wood fiber and wax. The round tin I received is about 3.25 inches across and an inch deep. It comes with a ranger band covering the seam, keeping the contents secure and dry, even when submerged in water.

To use, you simply pull out a pinch or two, fluff it up a bit, and then light it. While flicking a Bic will certainly get the job done, it seems more appropriate to use that whiz-bang awesome ferro rod on the Scout Feather sheath. The Outdoor Element Fiber Light ignites with even the smallest spark. Burn time is dependent upon the amount of material used, but is enough to cover a quarter burned for a few minutes.

What’s nice is that while it is very easy to light, this isn’t a flash-type tinder. It burns slow and steady, giving it time to ignite kindling. The wax content is sufficient to essentially waterproof the wood. I took a pinch of the Fiber Light and held it under a running faucet for several seconds, then squeezed out the excess water. It lit right up at the first spark and burned steadily. It’s pretty cool stuff.

Outdoor Element

Mike Mojica is one of the founders of Outdoor Element. He’s a proud member of the Pueblo Nation, Laguna Tribe. His native American name is Bodaway, which means Fire Maker. So it shouldn’t be a surprise that a fair number of Outdoor Element products are fire-centric. In addition to the Scout Feather and Fiber Light, they offer all sorts of gear designed to get your fire going fast.

.32 H&R Magnum vs .380 ACP – Pint Sized Power

By

Travis Pike

-

May 13, 2025

One of the reasons I love writing for GAT Daily is that they let me explore tiny niches of information that I and about a dozen other people find interesting. For example, which is the better mouse gun revolver round, the .32 H&R Magnum or the .380 ACP? Today, I want to dig into these two calibers and discuss which is better for your small revolver and why.

Why Compare .32 H&R Magnum and .380 ACP?

In the world of revolvers, these are both niche cartridges. The .32 H&R Magnum has been around since the 1980s, offering shooters a lower-recoil alternative to the .38 Special. While it didn’t receive a ton of popularity at release, it’s making a major comeback—or well, a major comeback as far as obscurish revolver calibers go.

The .380 ACP was never intended for revolver use—the A in ACP stands for Automatic. However, Charter Arms released a gun called the Coyote, a five-shot, snub-nose .380 ACP revolver that’s gained a fair bit of steam in the micro revolver world.

Both cartridges offer a lower recoil alternative to the .38 Special. They are soft shooters, and both offer a lightweight, easy-to-carry firearm that’s easy to shoot. With two options out there, we have to ask, is one better than the other?

.32 H&R Magnum vs. .380 ACP – Performance Differences

It’s all about performance, right? Which cartridge hits harder, penetrates deeper, and expands more? Which offers more capacity, and which is more affordable? That all matters for the end user, and it’s something we plan to explore today. You’ve come to the right place for a low-recoil revolver platform.

Penetration and Expansion

The .32 H&R Magnum takes a quick lead here. The .32 H&R Magnum can move a 90-grain projectile at 1,200 feet per second. The .380 ACP can move a 90-grain projectile at about 1,000 feet per second. We can talk about energy and foot-pounds, but with these two calibers, that doesn’t really matter.

The reason velocity and bullet weight matter is that they affect penetration. Handgun calibers only wound through direct contact. They don’t have secondary wounding mechanisms. With that in mind, the round must penetrate deep enough to reach the vitals. We typically measure that by penetration through properly calibrated ballistic gel.

Both the .380 ACP and .32 H&R Magnum can reach those depths. When fired from a revolver’s two-inch barrel, the .380 ACP has a harder time penetrating and expanding. The .32 H&R Magnum can both penetrate and expand from a short-barrel revolver. An FMJ from a .380 ACP with a short barrel is typically wise.

A .32 H&R Magnum can use a JHP or similar defensive round and penetrate and expand deep enough to matter. This gives the .32 H&R Magnum a slight benefit.

What About Recoil?

The .380 ACP leads the way when it comes to less recoil. When fired side by side through similar revolvers, the .380 ACP has less recoil than a .32 H&R Magnum. The difference is noticeable but not extreme. Both rounds handle much better than a .38 Special.

The lighter recoil of the .380 ACP makes the gun easier and faster to shoot, especially if we start talking about one-handed shooting. It makes a significant difference and should be noted as an advantage to a .380 ACP revolver.

Capacity

The .380 ACP uses a larger bullet than the .32 H&R Magnum and, much like the .38 Special, creates a five-shot small-frame revolver. The .32 H&R Magnum and its slimmer and trimmer bullet mean you get one extra round. Your typical five-shot snubby is now a six-shot snubby. One extra round isn’t much, but it’s an advantage worth mentioning.

Cost

Oh boy, let’s talk money. The .380 ACP is the way to go if you’re trying to save money. It’s cheaper and much easier to find. The .380 ACP round is very common, and multiple loadings exist. You can find various practice and defensive loads from all major manufacturers. They’ll be considerably cheaper than .32 H&R Magnum. Even when it comes to guns, the .380 Coyote is an affordable firearm.

So, Which is Better?

It depends on what you prioritize. I carry the .32 H&R Magnum. I like the additional round, the additional penetration, and the expansion. However, I can see the .380 ACP as the better option due to its price and availability for many people. You can spend less and train more, which can be a major advantage to the end user. Hopefully, we’ve given you the information to make the best decision.

Three Unconventional Manufactured Tinder

By

Reuben Bolieu

-

May 12, 2025

GAT_Unconventional_tinder (1) — Tindår Wick Kit and Tindår Tipi worked in tandem to secure a fire in the humid jungle of the Philippines.

Here are three unconventional manufactured tinder options when you need fire now! These aren’t your typical vaseline cotton balls. Instead, they are out-of-the-box ideas that work!

Natural and Manufactured Tinder

Natural Tinder consists of materials derived from organic sources, like dry grass, bark, or wood shavings, which ignite easily and burn quickly. In contrast, people create Manufactured Tinder from synthetic substances or processed materials, such as cotton balls soaked in chemicals or specially designed fire starters, which engineers design to catch fire more reliably and burn longer.

Uberleben Tindår Wick & Bellow

The Tindår Wick combines a cotton-rolled wick and brass sleeve, functioning like a giant matchstick and ready-made tinder. Made of KeroDry™ paraffin wax-infused hemp, the 2-inch aluminum sleeve is an oxygen sub-tractor and a bellow. Although it claims a burn time of one hour, I didn’t want to waste it to find out.

After using it for a few weeks, I stored it outdoors for three months in the rain. When I finally tested it, the Wick had swelled, making it hard to use. I flattened it with my hatchet, exposed about 1/2-inch of the wick, and utilized the Hexå Ferro rod to ignite it. Surprisingly, it caught fire easily even after months of exposure, and the aluminum sleeve remained cool to the touch. This Wick remains one of my most-used of the three unconventional manufactured tinder types.

The Tindår Wick excels at igniting fires in tight spaces, like wood-burning stoves and fireplaces. It’s perfect for reaching under logs during fire-lays, helping to create a more even burn. Weighing just one ounce, it’s a practical and reliable option for bushcraft and survival situations, offering a dependable alternative to a regular lighter while honing essential skills.

Unconventional Manufactured Tindår Tipi

The Uberleben Tindår Tipi resembles an Egyptian pyramid. Made from 4-panel Baltic birch, this kindling structure promotes optimal airflow and combustion for a robust fire. Standing 3.4 inches tall and weighing just 0.3 ounces, Uberleben designed it for easy assembly.

Putting the Tindår Tipi together felt like playing with grown-up Legos. It’s integrated fire dangler connects the panels and simplifies lighting. When I needed to start a fire, I paired it with the Tindår Wick, essential for tackling a jungle fire.

The Tindår Tipi worked flawlessly for three minutes of burn time, enough to help ignite the damp kindling in the jungle.

Creating a fire in humid conditions poses challenges, especially with insects buzzing around. Reliable tinder and kindling are crucial in the jungle. When the rain subsides, I quickly gather my materials and set up the tipi on a wooden base among rocks. Using a Ferro rod, I lit the Tindår Wick, effectively igniting the fire dangler. As the structure burned, I placed small to medium-sized kindling on top. The tipi burned for the claimed 3 minutes, resulting in a successful fire!

The Tindår Tipi is the least used of these three unconventional manufactured tinder options because it’s a specialty item of tinder.

Pyro Putty Fireballs

Fireballs are a type of fire-starting material designed for easy ignition and sustained flames, making them ideal for outdoor and emergency use. Pyro Putty engineered these compact balls from combustible materials, including wax, oils, and other safe-to-handle ingredients that ignite easily.

To use them, you simply expose the fireballs to a Ferro rod spark or open flame, such as from a lighter or matches. Once ignited, they produce a steady source of heat and flame for an extended period, making them perfect for campfires, barbecues, or emergency fires in cold conditions.

Their versatility allows them to perform well in various weather scenarios, making Pyro Putty Fire Balls a reliable option for campers, outdoor enthusiasts, and those needing an effective fire starter.

The author used a Pyro Putty Fireball in a hobo stove with damp sticks for a cookfire with great success!

This is the newest of the three unconventional manufactured tinder items. I’ll use it more often for a future recap!

Slightly Conventional Home Manufactured Tinder

Vasoline cottonballs have been a staple for decades. It’s a cheap and super effective tinder you can make at home, store in a waterproof container, and hit the trail. However, I have a twist for the backpacker or trail hiker who is weight and bulk-conscious.

Carmex is a multi-use life tool. It’s for lip protection, but you can use it for various applications. I prefer the plastic tube version for two reasons. One, you can take dry cottonballs, which pack down tighter than treated cottonballs. Make your Carmex cottonballs as you need them. The second reason I like the tube is that the tube gets smaller as you use the contents, resulting in less bulk.

Vaseline-soaked cotton balls and Carmex-soaked cotton balls make excellent, inexpensive homemade tinders.

Closing

Three unconventional manufactured tinder options give you flexibility. Take what you need to fit your trip and environment. Try them all and see what you prefer. More than anything, have fun doing it!

For more information, please check out Ube rl eben and Pyro Putty!

Five Things I was Wrong About

By

Travis Pike

-

May 12, 2025

I’m wrong about a lot of things. In a world where admitting wrong can be tough, I think it’s important to remember that being wrong isn’t necessarily bad, especially if you’re willing to learn and change your views and opinions based on data. At least, that’s what I tell myself because I’m wrong a fair bit. Today, I’m going to highlight five things I was wrong about.

The Federal X-2 Shotgun Shells

I was not a fan when I first saw the Federal X2 shotgun shells. They made fishing sinkers into shotgun pellets. It seemed like the G2 Rip of shotgun shells. The promise was that the pellets would come apart when they hit a soft target, giving you 18 pellets. This creates 18 wound tracks.

I was skeptical of the pellets’ penetration and whether they would consistently break apart. Yet, testing in ballistic gel shows that the pellets offer adequate penetration and consistently break apart when they hit soft targets. The majority of pellets make the proper depth. I was wrong about the round’s performance.

The standard 2.75-inch shells work quite well, but the mini shells seem more suspect. If you want to double your pellet load, I’d stick to the full-sized X2.

Snub Nose Revolvers

My stance on snub-nose revolvers was one of pure ignorance. I saw them as a viable option, but an option people pick over guns like the P365 for a nostalgic purpose, or potentially a stylish option. I thought it was vanity, but after shooting a variety of snub-nose revolvers, I walked away, understanding why people chose the snub-nose revolver.

For one, they conceal exceptionally well. For deep carry, the curves and profile of a revolver seem less gun-like and print less altogether. I’ve found this to be extremely true for pocket-carrying a revolver. Speaking of, when pocket-carrying a revolver, the cylinder pushes the gun away from your body and allows you to easily grasp the grip.

Additionally, in a close-up fight, a revolver is a lot less likely to malfunction when you’re in a clinch. Additionally, the revolver is less susceptible to failures due to bullet weight and velocity, allowing for light recoiling loads. I find myself carrying a snub-nosed revolver often these days. It’s nice to be wrong and find something you like oh so much.

Pocket .380s (Kind Of)

There was a period when I completely hated pocket .380s. From 2014 to 2025, I thought it was the dumbest genre of pistols on the market. They had excessive recoil, crappy sights, and crappy triggers, and ballistically they weren’t worth the squeeze. While easy to carry, they sucked at everything else.

What changed my opinion of the pocket .380 was the S&W Bodyguard 2.0. It fixed everything that was wrong with the genre of pocket .380s. It had a great trigger and awesome sights, and the recoil was completely manageable. I was wrong about the genre of pocket .380s, but most pocket .380s still suck.

The S&W Bodyguard 2.0 led me to try the Ruger LCP Max, which also showed me that not all of them were terrible. Most were awful, but not all. The genre of pocket .380s seems to be changing fairly rapidly, fixing many of the problems I had with the older guns.

Shockwave Style Firearms

From the day they premiered at SHOT, I’ve been a big fan of the Shockwave series of firearms. There are tons now, with Mossberg, Remington, and a dozen other Turkish firms creating new models every year. With that in mind, for years, I saw them as nothing more than range toys. They weren’t serious-use firearms, but fun guns that gracefully skirted the NFA.

It wasn’t until guys like Rhett Neumayer put the time behind one that I realized they were more than range toys. They represented an ultra-compact but heavy-hitting option for personal defense. They take a lot of practice and skill to wield, and honestly, they aren’t for everyone. However, the ultra-small size still provides 12-gauge firepower.

They represent a PDW-type firearm in many ways. Sure, they might be the wrong option for recoil-sensitive shooters, but for those willing to learn, train, and be ammo picky, the Shockwave and similar-style firearms can be serious defensive firearms.

The Judge (Kind Of)

When I was young and dumb, I loved the idea of the Judge. A revolver shotgun pistol seemed so cool. Then I bought one and realized it was a terrible .410 and a pretty lame .45 Colt revolver. The patterns were terrible, and I would tell anyone who’d listen to avoid them. I’m still not wrong about the original Judge, but Taurus did prove they could make a viable revolver shotgun pistol.

I approached the Judge Home Defender with a lot of caution. I figured the rifled barrel would make it suck, just like the original Judge. Imagine my surprise when it didn’t suck. The patterns were consistent with most ammo types and capable of working like a shotgun. A very short and lightweight shotgun with the bonus ability to shoot a .45 Colt.

The Judge offers an alternative to the .410 Shockwave, and the double-action design offers a bit more capability than the Shockwave. It’s a capable .410 option. It changed my mind on the capability of rifled barrels.

Being Wrong

Yep, I’ve been wrong more than five times, but these are the five times I can remember most vividly. Being wrong is fine; just don’t get so stuck in your wrongness that you refuse to evolve and grow.

Analysis Paralysis – Stop Overthinking and Act

By

Jim Cobb

-

May 11, 2025

In the preparedness world, it can be easy to fall victim to analysis paralysis. This is when we fear making the wrong decision so much that we sort of freeze up. We’re afraid that we’re going to overlook a better solution, or that the option we’re leaning toward is simply incorrect. As a result, we don’t do anything at all.

This can happen when we’re researching a big purchase, like a generator or a home freeze dryer. It can also occur when we’re trying to make plans for how we’ll handle various scenarios, such as emergency evacuation.

Analysis Paralysis Symptoms

Here are a few signs to watch for that can indicate you’re falling into that trap.

Analysis paralysis - endless research — Research can be important, but you have to recognize when enough is enough.

Endless research – you feel compelled to continue reading reviews and seek out more and more information, even if you’ve been at it for quite some time already.

Difficulty in letting it go – you can’t stop thinking about it, to the point of distraction.

Analysis paralysis - anxiety — If you find yourself getting anxious or upset, it might be time for a break.

Anxiety – you might feel very anxious. You get sweaty and your heart rate increases. You might feel agitated or maybe even a little short of breath.

Sleep loss – you find yourself staying up until all hours of the night, tossing and turning, and unable to relax.

Analysis Paralysis Solutions

There are several approaches you can take to break out of the paralysis. If the first one you try doesn’t seem to work, move on to another. Over time, you might find certain solutions seem to work for you more often than others. That’s normal, as we’re all wired a little bit differently.

Try flipping a coin. Not so much to let the coin make the decision, but you might find yourself hoping for one result over the other. I know it sounds silly, but this can really work in many situations.

Commit and move on. Sometimes, the best way to tackle it is head-on. Meaning, give yourself permission to just pick an option and live with the decision.

Understand that it’s okay to be wrong. For the vast majority of decisions we make, the world isn’t going to come to a screeching halt if we are mistaken. It might be inconvenient, sure, and maybe it’ll cost us a few bucks to fix the problem. But in the long run, the experience we gain is probably going to be worth it.

Analysis paralysis - setting a deadline — Set a hard deadline for yourself to make the decision and commit to it.

Set a deadline for yourself, and stick to it. Give yourself a very specific amount of time to research and mull over the decision. Once that time limit is reached, make your move and commit.

Break the decision down into segments or steps. Sometimes, the problem or decision is just too complex to tackle easily. If we can parse it out a bit and take it a little at a time, that can help alleviate analysis paralysis.

You can also try to depersonalize the issue. What I mean by that is to take yourself out of the equation entirely. Look at it objectively and think about how you might advise someone else to handle it. Imagine if a friend or coworker came to you with the same problem. What would you say to them? Then, follow your own advice.

Analysis paralysis can happen to anyone. It isn’t rare, though some people tend to be more susceptible to it than others. Recognize it when it happens and try different approaches to break free of it.