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Three Signaling Must-Have Items

By
Reuben Bolieu
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The most important signaling must-have items are whistles, according to the author.

Being lost and stranded in the wilderness is a frightening experience. Having the right signaling tools is crucial. These essential items can help you attract attention and increase your chances of rescue. Here are three signaling must-have items to add to your survival kit:

Signaling Must-Haves

There are various signaling tools available, such as whistles, mirrors, flares, and signaling panels, each offering unique benefits. By packing these essential signaling tools, you will prepare yourself better to handle unexpected situations and increase your chances of survival.

Flare Mini Signal Mirror

The Wazoo Gear Flare Mini Signal Mirror is an essential tool for signaling for help during emergencies, capable of attracting attention from planes or rescue teams up to 30 miles away. It fits perfectly in the Cache Belt buckle with its included Signal Mirror Sleeve, and is a valuable addition to any emergency kit. 

The Wazoo Gear Flare Mini Signal Mirror is an essential Signaling Must-Have Item for help during emergencies, capable of attracting attention from planes or rescue teams up to 30 miles away.

You can attach the mirror to gear or PFDs. It floats and reflects highly, making it visible up to 10 miles. It features a one-handed reflective aimer, but you should use it with a flashlight at night. Besides signaling, it can also check for eye abrasions, perform tick checks, or help with grooming after a rescue.

Field Test

Signaling gets overlooked in survival programs, and many kits miss the mark. The Wazoo Gear Flare Mini Signal Mirror features a lightweight, shatterproof design specifically for the Cache Belt system. This makes it easy to carry. I believe in having at least two signaling methods while in the woods. I keep this mirror in my Cache Belt and also carry a small dog tag-sized mirror on my keychain.

What I like most about this compact mirror is its size. There’s no reason not to carry two, given its low weight. Its bright orange color makes it easy to find in low light with a flashlight. Besides signaling, it’s also useful for tick checks, which are important in warmer months across many US regions.

The Wazoo Flare Mini Signal Mirro is waterproof, freeze-proof, and shatter-proof, ensuring durability and usability in any environment, including fresh and salt water.

Signaling Must-Have Poncho

The SOL Heat Reflective Poncho is a game-changer in outdoor gear. This lightweight, compact, and versatile poncho keeps you warm, dry, and visible in any weather condition.

This innovative SOL Heat Reflective Poncho is made with 90% heat-reflective material, providing waterproof, windproof, and high tear-resistance.

Key features:

  • Heat Reflective Technology: The poncho’s 90% heat-reflective material maximizes warmth retention, making it ideal for emergency situations or chilly nights.
  • Waterproof and Windproof: Stay dry and protected from the elements, no matter the weather.
  • Durable and Lightweight: This poncho weighs only 2.7 ounces, making it easy to carry. You can use it as a ground cloth or an emergency shelter.
  • Spacious Design: Cover yourself and your gear, or even share it with a furry friend.

How to Use:

  1. Emergency Shelter: Simply pull the poncho over yourself and your gear to create an instant shelter.
  2. Heat Reflection: Position the poncho near a heat source, like a campfire, to maximize warmth.
  3. Signal: Use the poncho’s reflective surface to signal for help in emergency situations.
The SOL Heat Reflective Poncho is the easiest shelter for hunkering down and waiting out a storm or until possible rescue.

With the SOL Heat Reflective Poncho, you’ll be prepared for any outdoor adventure. Stay warm, dry, and visible with this survival must-have.

TripleWhistle Signaling Must-Have

The Sun Company’s 3-in-1 Survival Whistle is a compact and reliable tool featuring a precise compass, a thermometer for temperature tracking, and an emergency whistle. Proudly designed and assembled in the USA, it guarantees quality and attention to detail.

Sun Company’s 3-in-1 Survival Whistle is a compact and reliable tool featuring a precise compass, a thermometer for temperature tracking, and an emergency whistle.

The luminous compass is ideal for navigating in low-light conditions, featuring a 20mm Grade A liquid-filled dial that illuminates in the dark. It’s perfect for hikers and campers who need to find their way at night.

The Japanese Dial Thermometer is a precise 20mm liquid-damped Grade AA thermometer that can read temperatures as low as -20°F. Its high-visibility Safety Orange color makes it easy to spot, and it includes a safety whistle and a lanyard for quick access, making it useful in emergencies.

Field Test

I’m a big fan of carrying a whistle instead of keeping it tucked away where it’s hard to reach or could get lost. The 17-inch lanyard provides good attachment options, and the bright orange color ensures it’s noticeable if dropped. I appreciate the general direction compass that lights up at night or when recharged with a flashlight. The TripleWhistle is a practical multi-tool survival item that offers great value without being gimmicky.

Having a thermometer adds fun to campfire chats as we guess the temperature. I especially liked its sturdy design, which resists damage from falls or steps. The pea is nearly impossible to freeze, ensuring the tool remains functional.

Beyond using the whistle in groups of three, the luminous compass can attract attention when swung on its 17-inch lanyard, especially when low-flying aircraft are nearby. Just be cautious not to lose grip on the lanyard!

For more information, check out Sun Company, Wazoo Gear, and SOL.

The Heritage Roscoe – A Hard Boiled Revolver

By
Travis Pike
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This city is as cold and dark as the deep-blued finish on my Roscoe. It’s a couple of pounds of steel and wood loaded with five rounds of .38 Special. It sits heavy in a pocket, but heavy is good. Heavy is reliable. Heavy ensures you know it’s there and sitting, ready when needed. 

Maybe you’re a Private Investigator on a case. Maybe you’re a dame on the run with a need for a piece. Perhaps you’re just another mook on the street, but you’re smarter and more prepared than the other mooks cause you have a Roscoe in your pocket. Or maybe, just maybe, you’re a guy or gal who likes classic revolvers but just can’t afford a real classic. 

Even if you could afford a real classic, shooting it more than occasionally might make you feel like you’re damaging history. What’s a guy or gal to do? That’s why guns like the Heritage Manufacturing Roscoe exist. It’s a retro reissue of a classic snub-nose revolver. 

The Roscoe At Its Core 

This city is rotten, but the Roscoe isn’t. The Roscoe is a remake of the Taurus Model 85. Taurus owns Heritage Manufacturing, which allows them to share designs, guns, and facilities. A few years ago, Taurus stopped producing the Model 85 and replaced it with the six-shot Taurus 856. The Roscoe represents the first Model 85 produced in a long time. 

The Roscoe isn’t your typical Model 85. In fact, even looking at the earliest Model 85s imported to the United States, we see that the Roscoe is new. It’s at least new in the sense that Taurus never made Model 85s in this configuration. The Roscoe and its design date back to the 1940s and 50s. 

It inhibits the same spirit as the Colt Detective Special and early snub-nose revolvers. In particular, it looks more like the earliest S&W Model 36, which was released in 1950. We have things like the small, downright tiny wood grips. The grips are checkered and look fantastic. 

The ejector rod is exposed and lacks a shroud. It’s just sitting there, exposed to the world around it. The finish appears to be blued but is listed as a high-gloss black finish. The frame’s finish is broken up by a large white H and marking stating the gun’s built in Brazil. 

The Roscoe comes in two- and three-inch variants. I have the true two-inch snub-nose revolver. At the end of that barrel sits an all-black ramping front sight. The hammer sits exposed, ready to be thumbed back for those single-action shots. The cylinder holds five rounds of .38 Special. 

Overall, it’s a solid little gun that inhibits the hard-boiled spirit. 

Blasting Away With the Roscoe 

The Heritage Roscoe isn’t much different than any other snub nose. In heading to the range, I knew today would be an ego killer. I suck with small revolvers. I’m barely competent with large revolvers. However, I take these challenges as learning opportunities. Me and Roscoe hit the range with a bit of optimism and an ammo can full of .38 Special. 

I started with some basic slow-fire practice at ten yards. I worked the double-action trigger and resisted the urge to pull the hammer backward to get that lighter trigger pull. The double-action trigger proved to be surprisingly smooth and quite nice for a budget-worthy revolver. My group was hand-sized and sat about an inch above my point of aim. 

It’s not terrible by any means, and my own skills hold me back. When I started hitting the rapid-fire strings of two to three rounds, the groups began to open up. They remained with an A-zone of an IPSC target, but only just barely. I focused hard on pulling trigger evenly and smoothly, and that smooth and nice trigger certainly helped with the accuracy I could achieve. 

Just for fun, I tried single-action shots from 10, 15, and 20 yards. At 10 and 15 yards, I was able to hit gongs from four to eight inches easily enough. At 20 yards, things fell apart. I had a tougher time hitting anything but the eight-inch gong. The short sight radius and lack of a real rear sight means every small mistake is amplified. 

Riding the Recoil 

Small, lightweight guns with tiny grips don’t do much for recoil control. The Roscoe certainly doesn’t offer you much grip to grab. A standard pressure load of .38 Special will still rock your hands. You get that snappy, hand-slapping fun of a small revolver. The thin, small grips don’t do much to mitigate recoil and have the same effect a chisel does on rock. 

While the recoil will tire your hand, it won’t cause any serious pain. The checkered grips do their best to keep the gun in hand. The recoil of two or three fast-fired shots will significantly alter where your sights sit if you let it. You’ll need a tight grip on the gun to keep control over it. If you apply that good tight grip, you can keep the gun on target. 

On the Draw 

The Roscoe is basically a J-frame. It fits most J-frame holsters, but not all. The trigger guard seems a bit thicker than a modern J-frame. In most holsters, this won’t matter, but it did with the MFT appendix holster. I stuck to using a pocket holster and practicing from a pocket carry position. The round nature of a revolver’s cylinder makes it an excellent pocket gun. 

The small grip also helps prevent printing, and they sit away from your body, making them easy to grab and draw from a pocket carry position. I practiced some basic pocket draw drills and got quite quick. My ability to put a round in the chest of an IPSC target in less than a second became a reality. Of course, to get less than a second, I started with my hands in my pocket. 

Outside the pocket, we got closer to three seconds, but I think more practice can trim that down. The Roscoe provides an excellent pocket gun, and when Fitz created the modern snub nose, he advocated pocket carry—not much changed from then until now with small revolvers. 

Saving Lives and Cash 

The Roscoe is a modern retro reissue of the snub noses from the period that made them famous. Still, it’s not all that different from a modern revolver. It might lack some features, but it still works as a very competent defensive revolver. Its street is under $300, and it is a solid little gun. If defensive use is your purpose, I’d swap the grips for something a bit bigger and easier to hold and paint the front sight white. 

That’s all you need to have a competent pocket pistol for concealed carry. Heritage, by means of Taurus, has released a very nice little revolver for very little money. As a hard-boiled detective fan, I can’t help but think of the stories about Phillip Marlowe, Sam Spade, and Mike Hammer. It’s the perfect gun with the perfect name for bringing back a classic of concealed carry. 

For more information, please visit HeritageMfg.com.

Pistol Basics: The IDPA 5×5 Classifier 

By
P.E. Fitch
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IDPA 5x5 Classifier

A neat fact I learned about IDPA is that one of its primary methods of classifying and evaluating students, the IDPA 5×5 Classifier, also happens to function quite well as a basic independent drill and shooting diagnostic test. I’ve only ever shot a single IDPA match in my life so far, so I’m not as familiar with this action pistol sport as I am with USPSA.

The IDPA 5×5 Classifier is the de facto way to determine a shooter’s classification in the sport of IDPA. According to instructor K. A. Clark of Citizens Defense Research, the IDPA 5×5 Classifier is also a great prognostic in evaluating 80% of the handgun shooting’s public skill level and pistol aptitudes.

In a nutshell, the IDPA 5×5 Classifier can perhaps be described as something that approximates a gentler version of Gabe White’s Standards—but nonetheless useful.

IDPA 5×5 Classifier Setup And Procedure

Setting up the IDPA 5×5 Classifier consists of placing an IDPA paper target on a stand 10 yards away. That’s it. 

Unfortunately, I only keep USPSA targets around. (Seriously, I tried looking everywhere around the house on the off-chance I could find an old IDPA target until realizing I was wasting too much time before my hour-long drive to the range). So, I ended up improvising a USPSA target and traced a Down-0 eight-inch circle using the base of a cone. I traced the smaller “head” Down-0 portion with a four-inch coffee can. Official? Hardly, but it worked in a pinch.

The rest of the IDPA Down-1 areas mostly coincide with the C-Zones of USPSA targets. Don’t worry. The dismal shooting I carried out for the sake of this article won’t give me an official classification, either. To get a classification, one has to shoot the IDPA 5×5 Classifier at a valid IDPA match hosted by a sanctioned club and administered by a qualified range officer.  

Like setup, the procedure for the IDPA 5×5 Classifier is also simple. In addition to the requisite IDPA-legal firearm and holster, this exercise only requires 25 rounds of ammunition and one spare magazine. Each of the four shooting procedures start at a shot-timer’s beep: 

The Four Procedures

  1. Draw and fire 5 rounds freestyle
  2. Draw and fire 5 rounds strong-hand only
  3. Start with only 5 rounds loaded, draw, and fire them freestyle. Perform an emergency reload from slide-lock and shoot the target 5 more rounds. 
  4. Draw and fire 4 rounds freestyle to the body and 1 round to the head

Shooting The IDPA 5×5 Classifier  

Writing an article about the IDPA 5×5 Classifier is as good of an excuse as any to dust off an old friend from the back of the safe. Especially the kind of friend that the sport was literally built around back when its founders established it. It also helps that said dusted-off friend is IDPA match-ready and legal for the Custom Defensive Pistol (CDP) division.

Of course, I’m talking about the .45 ACP Colt Competition Series 1911. I can’t remember the last time I actually tried shooting that Colt, excluding its linked review I wrote this spring. So, I was due some trigger time with this pistol, without a doubt.

I wanted to observe the spirit of IDPA rules, so I donned an original OWB strongside Raven Concealment Phantom holster. Even though I don’t know the minutiae of IDPA rules, I do know that the Phantom is IDPA legal as it’s essentially a carry holster that tucks close to the body regardless of “which side of the waistband” it sits on.

As a rule of thumb, USPSA-style competition belts and holsters with hangers are a no-go at IDPA events. I’m so used to either drawing from concealment with an AIWB holster or from a USPSA style belt that I had to give myself time to re-familiarize myself with the OWB strongside draw of the closely tucked-in Raven Phantom. 

Scoring The IDPA Classifier 

After warming up with the Colt 1911 independently from the IDPA 5×5 Classifier, I gave myself two runs at the classifier itself. None of my scores or times here are official, and it’s also not like I got an IDPA Master (highest level) class run. I shot the classifier simply for the sake of this article, for educational purposes, and to have fun.

I’m used to USPSA style ‘hit factor’ scoring, which measures the ratio of points scored divided by the time. IDPA scoring is a little bit different. While time is still of the essence, misses, penalties, or shots that land in the different scoring zones add to the raw time. Shots that catch a target’s Down-1 zone add one whole second to the shooter’s raw time, and Down-2 shots add two seconds.

In IDPA, missing a target is catastrophic; every missed shot adds five seconds to the raw time. And in any action pistol shooting sport, five seconds is a long time. To score, one adds up their total raw times and factors in misses and penalties. 

First Run

  1. 3.64 (-1)
  2. 6.06 (-1)
  3. 9.73 (-1)
  4. 3.79 (ouch, -7) I missed the very last shot of this string, and misses wreck scores.

Raw Time: 23.22

Final Score: 33.22 (Marksman)

Second Run

  1. 3.93 (-1)
  2. 5.30
  3. 8.09 (-2)
  4. 4.83 (-1)

Raw Time: 22.15

Final Score: 26.15 (Sharpshooter)

I’m not happy with my scores, but I won’t hammer myself too much because I hardly shoot that gun, and I’ve never shot this drill before. By all means, it is an easy drill, and any skilled shooter can crush it, especially one that regularly trains, dry fires, and practices.

I’m sure I’m not the only one who is way too comfortable with taking the entire height of the A-zone on a USPSA target when shooting a Bill Drill. However, by virtue of the “shorter” 8-inch Down-0 scoring area on an IDPA paper target, I noticed that I had to shoot more deliberately to avoid catching time-consuming misses. 

A picture of my target (along with Sharpie improvised circles) I took on the firing line.

IDPA Classification Stages: Standard Method vs Abbreviated Method

In the action pistol sport of IDPA (International Defensive Pistol Association), there are two main ways for handgun shooters to get a classification—by the Standard Method or by the IDPA Abbreviated Method.

The IDPA Standard Method consists of four different stages totaling 72 rounds shot over the same array of three paper targets and a couple of barricades. On the other hand, the Abbreviated Method consists of the IDPA 5×5 Classifier, which is shot at 10 yards on a single target and only takes 25 rounds. The Abbreviated Method / IDPA 5×5 Classifier isn’t a stage like the Standard Method.  

The Takeaway 

Clark mentioned to me that he’s fond of the IDPA 5×5 Classifier for many reasons. It covers the better part of handgun shooting mechanics (except for support-hand-only shooting), and since the classifier only consists of one target at 10 yards, it’s very easy to set up in virtually any shooting venue.

As an instructor, he added that because the IDPA 5×5 classifier is so straightforward, it’s easy to shepherd his students through it and lets him gauge their “real-world” handgun talent. He did warn me that as a diagnostic tool, the IDPA 5×5 classifier may be “too easy” for the top 10% of shooters.

Clark’s only real critique of this shooting exercise is that it ignores support-hand only shooting even though drawing and shooting with the strong hand only is codified into the IDPA 5×5 Classifier’s shooting process.

H&R is the Best Thing to Happen in the AR World

By
Travis Pike
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ARs are just kinda boring. At this point, I often have a hard time caring. The AR world is most certainly full. I came into this industry already, and I’m a bit bored with AR as a rifle. Five years in the Marine Corps would do that.

I’m rarely ever excited by something in the AR world. However, the revival of Harrington and Richardson, or H&R, by Palmetto State Armory has been the first thing I’ve ever been genuinely excited about in the AR world. 

Remington drove the H&R name into the ground a few years ago. It, and most of Remington’s brands, went up for auction, and PSA got its hands on the H&R brand. At the same time, they also acquired a smaller brand called Nodak Spud.

Nodak Spud was known for creating incredibly accurate retro AR lowers, uppers, and more. Some internal movements turn H&R into PSA’s retro brand, which Mike Wetteland, the former owner of Nodak Spud, would helm. 

We saw a small tease at SHOT Show 2023, where I was able to meet and chat with Mike, who seemed optimistic about the brand. By 2024, it’s easy to see why he’s so optimistic. H&R had a massive showing at SHOT Show 2024 with a ton of retro ARs, some that went into some very odd territory. This includes some esoteric ARs like the Colt DOE SMG and the M16 as a light machine gun. Since then, the brand has steadily grown. 

Why Is H&R So Cool?

The first thing that makes H&R so damn interesting is that they are producing ARs we can’t get anywhere anytime soon. There are plenty of retro-style ARs out there, but they are mainly concerned with the M16A2 and maybe the M16A1. Anything outside of that can be tough to find. H&R is making the M16A2 and M16A1 for sure, but they’re going beyond those two full-sized retro rifles. 

They are dropping into some more obscure weapons that haven’t been produced for decades. For example, the H&R 635 SMG is a 9mm Colt SMG clone that’s a direct clone of the original Colt 635 SMG. Except it’s not full auto and features a brace rather than a stock. Speaking of that brace, the HAR-15 brace attempts to look like a CAR-15-style stock while being a brace, and it’s a spectacular creation. 

This allows us to get some of Colt’s old carbines without breaking the retro look. This includes the 733, which H&R calls the H&R 733. They aren’t shy about matching the model numbers to what Colt or the military called these weapons. The HAR-15 graces guns that clone the XM177E1, the 723, the 635 SMG, the 733, the 654, and more. 

As you can see from all the models I’ve name-dropped, H&R is making a diverse number of weapons. These are carbines that have long been out of production, and some were rarely ever available to the average Joe. Let’s face it: NFA items weren’t that popular during the years Colt produced the 733 series. 

The Past Is the Future 

Most gun owners have the AR they need for self-defense, competition, and the end of the world. If they don’t, dozens of companies still produce fantastic guns for those more serious roles. I have my Colt/BCM clone, and it’s great, but it’s boring. At least to me it’s very boring. I need it, I have it, and I’m good with using it, but it doesn’t excite me. 

Being able to obtain something new that’s also old is nice, especially when it may have never been available for the average Joe in the first place. How do I recreate Heat if I don’t have a 733? How do I get a 733? I could painstakingly find the parts and create one, or I just hit buy it now at H&R and PSA. 

It’s nice to be able to step back and handle guns I’ve always wanted to own without having to spend a ton of money or time trying to hunt them down. I recently obtained an H&R 635 for review, and it blew me away. It’s a fun gun that’s painfully accurate in the world of the Colt SMG. If H&R is producing all of their guns as nicely as this 635, I have high hopes. 

I think a 733 is next on my list, and it’s because of H&R that I can own such a gun. I can’t wait to see what’s next. (I really hope it’s the DOE SMG; I need it so badly.) 

For more information, please visit PalmettoStateArmory.com.

Switches and Timers – Understanding Physical Defense Targets

By
Jim Cobb
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Timers and Switches

When it comes to self-defense, it’s important to understand the concept of switches and timers. I’ve heard this discussed using other terms as well, but I’ve grown to like this approach to the topic the best.

In the real world, defense engagements don’t happen like they do in the movies. Between adrenaline and any number of other chemicals that might be floating through their bloodstream, even a bullet to center mass might not stop them. Don’t believe me? Check out any number of police-involved shooting videos online. They can fight through fatal wounds and injure or kill you while they’re going down.

In other words, you didn’t turn off a switch with your shot(s), you started a timer. On the other hand, there are targets on the body that you can exploit and sort of “switch off” those parts of the body nearly instantly. The trade-off is that those switches aren’t usually fatal.

Switches

For the purposes of our discussion, a switch has two settings—on or off. On means all systems are normal, and the aggressor has full range of movement. Off means you’ve caused an immediate physical reaction where one or more body parts are no longer working properly. If you slice through their bicep muscle, they’ll have difficulty raising and using that arm. Take out a knee, and that leg will no longer support their weight.

Most often, with switch attacks, you’re targeting things like ligaments, muscles, and tendons. There are also nerves and nerve clusters that can have an immediate effect. You’re affecting mobility and function.

However, while turning off a switch negatively impacts their ability to attack you and does so in a nearly instant manner, it doesn’t entirely eliminate it. For example, if you’re able to take one of their arms out of the equation, that doesn’t stop them in their tracks. They can still advance forward and use the other arm to swing or fire a weapon.

One of the advantages of using switch targets is that they are typically less than lethal. Depending on the threat level, that might be appropriate, as well as justifiable, from a legal perspective. The downside is this approach doesn’t decisively put the target down.

Timers

With a timer target, you can cause a fatal injury, which will definitely serve to end the threat. But that injury isn’t likely to have an immediate effect on the attack. It takes time for it to have an appreciable impact. If you sever an artery, the target will bleed out, absent intervention. However, it doesn’t happen in an instant, and the entire time that they’re bleeding, your safety could still be in danger.

Typical timer targets include the circulation and respiratory systems. Something to keep in mind is that attacking timer targets means you’re using lethal force. If you are concerned about legal ramifications, be sure you can justify your actions.

There are a few targets in the human body that act as both timers and switches. Meaning they are both fatal and instant. There aren’t many of these combined targets but think spine and brain. Traumatic injuries to them are going to be decisive as well as probably permanent.

At the end of the day, knowledge and training in the use of both switches and timers is advisable.

The Mossberg 20-gauge 590 – The Little Gauge

By
Travis Pike
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Who knew the Mossberg Shockwave would expand the 590 series? Not too long ago, Mossberg introduced three 590s: two 20-gauge models and a .410. Mossberg has long made 500s in the sampler gauge/caliber, but it’s new to the 590 world. The 590 has traditionally been a 12 gauge. However, the Shockwave has always been a 590. So, when they produced 20-gauge and .410 Shockwaves, they opened up the world for proper shotgun variants. That’s how we got the 20-gauge 590. 

The model you’re looking at now is the seven-shot 20 gauge 590. They also produce a longer nine-shot model with ghost ring sights. This plain Jane version features an 18.5-inch barrel with a normal bead sight. It’s super plain and basic, but still a capable shotgun.

The gun measures out to a little over 39 inches with a length of pull of 13.87 inches. The gun has simple black polymer furniture, and the only thing close to extra features is sling swivels. 

The 20 gauge 590 series offers an affordable, low-recoil shotgun option for the discerning shooter. It’s built on a very proven platform that’s been depended on for decades by police and military forces. 

The Pros and Cons of 20 Gauge 590 

As a dedicated tactical shotgun, you’re not dealing with a longer-than-necessary barrel, an ultra-long length of pull, or a five-round magazine tube. The 590 configuration gives you a barebones fighting shotgun that’s perfectly suitable for a defensive role. The magazine tube holds six 2.75-inch rounds, and an additional round in the chamber gives you a solid capacity. 

Like every Mossberg, the gun features a tang safety. It’s on the receiver and provides an ambidextrous and easy-to-use safety. The tang safety is very easy to use in the dark. Mossberg also makes all of their Mossberg 500/590 series shotguns to be optics-ready. It’s easy to add a rail and optic or a dedicated optics mount. 

The 20 gauge 590 can accept most furniture designed for the famed 12 gauge variant. This includes stocks and forends, so accessorizing and customizing isn’t difficult. 

The downsides are few and far between. However, I think Mossberg has the wrong stock on the gun. It’s got a length of pull that’s fine for most grown men. However, a 20 gauge tactical shotgun is likely going to be used by smaller shooters. A shorter length of pull, like a Bantam 12.5-inch LOP, would be better suited for this gun. 

The other problem is the bead. It’s directly mounted on the short barrel and can create POI/POA issues. It tends to make it appear that slugs are hitting high. There is a reason why Remington uses the pedestal bead sights. 

To The Range 

The recoil difference between the 12 gauge and 20 gauge is massive. The 20 gauge is just plain pleasant. Even standard power buckshot loads are soft compared to a 12 gauge. The 20 gauge 590 still packs a fight-stopping wallop. The lack of recoil makes it quick and easy to handle. It helps that the gun weighs less than six pounds. 

In practice, I could fire two shots from the low ready in less than a second on an A-zone at ten yards. I have that same speed with a semi-auto 12 gauge. For a pump gun, it’s quite fast. Without recoil and muzzle rise, it’s much easier to shoot the gun in less than stellar positions, like behind cover. 

The cylinder bore choke patterns are as you expect. It’s not going to blow your socks off, but with some cheaper Monarch buckshot, the pattern was about the size of my hand at ten yards. That’s perfectly suitable for home defense use. Speaking of, a big problem with 20 gauge is a lack of dedicated defensive ammo. Federal is supposed to release a Flitecontrol load, but it has not appeared yet. 

To counteract the POI/POA problem, I attached a Williams Gun Sight Low Reflex Sight. It’s a handy little red dot that mounts nice and low on the 20 gauge 590. With the dot in place, this thing can dispatch a lot of lead quickly and accurately. 

Chewing Through 

I shot the Lucky Gunner Home Defense Shotgun Skills test and excelled with the Mossberg. I almost got Advanced in each course. The test is broken down into four stages. 

Stage 1 is just a simple ready-up drill at 15 yards. 

The Second stage is a ready-up drill with two shots at 10 yards.

Stage 3 gets complicated with the gun being loaded with three rounds in a cruiser-ready configuration and placed on a table. The shooter has to fire all three rounds and do an emergency reload with two rounds. 

Stage 4 starts in a compressed, low-ready position. You fire two shots from this position, then step back, assume a shouldered shotgun stance, and make a headshot. 

I sailed through it with ease with the 20 gauge 590. The 20 gauge 590 maintains Mossberg’s reputation for reliability and robustness. I chewed through several bulk boxes of 20-gauge shotguns and had no problems with any ammo types. 

The Little Shotgun That Can 

The 20 gauge 590 is a fantastic shotgun for those who are looking for a lower recoil option. It’s affordable, easy to shoot, and from a proven company. I still think a better low-recoil alternative would be an AR, but if you really want a low-recoil shotgun, the 590 has you covered. 

For more information, please visit Mossberg.com.

Smith & Wesson Releases Three new M&P 15 SBR’s

By
Tim Stetzer
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Smith & Wesson has been making ARs in various forms for a while now. This time, though, they’re dipping their toes into the NFA world with a trio of M&P 15 SBRs.

Smith & Wesson’s M&P 15 SBR’s

Smith & Wesson didn’t just drop one SBR, it started out with three, so you have some options. I’m a fan of short ARs personally and have built a bunch on Form 1’s. It’s nice to have factory options, though, and it doesn’t hurt that they come with a warranty.

Back when I was working regular law enforcement I SBR’d my privately owned patrol rifle, but I had to have a gunsmith do the work. I could have done it but for liability purposes, the department required it be done by a gunsmith. Well, a factory SBR like S&W is offering would have been a nice option for folks who don’t want to build their own or can’t because of department policies.

M&P 15 SBR 556

The first rifle is simply called the M&P 15 SBR. It’s chambered in 5.56mm and has an 11.5-inch barrel. The barrel is threaded and comes with an A2 flash hider. It’s fitted with a 9-inch free-float handguard with M-LOK slots. Smith provides a 2-inch M-LOK rail.

The SBR is built on a flattop upper, and uses Smith’s forged A2 pattern lower that features an integral, enlarged trigger guard, which is great for gloved hands. It uses a flat face trigger and an ambidextrous safety selector. A Troy ambidextrous, extended charging handle is used in lieu of the typical GI charging handle.

The M&P SBR is outfitted with a variety of Magpul gear. It has a MOE polymer grip and an ASAP QD ambidextrous sling attachment point complete with QD swivel. There’s also an M-LOK QD sling mount, and the rifle comes with a Magpul MBUS dual-aperture flip-up adjustable rear sight and MBUS flip-up front sight.

The M&P SBR comes with one Magpul 30-round magazine and a 15-inch cable lock. MSRP is $1,279.00.

The M&P 15 SBR 556 BCM Gunfighter Forend

Next up is the M&P 15 SBR 556 BCM Gunfighter Forend. The base gun is similar to the base M&P 15 SBR, but this one features accessories from B5 Systems and Bravo Company. It uses a B5 Systems SOPMOD stock and B5 Systems P-Grip 23 pistol grip. The forend is a BCMGunfighter polymer unit with M-LOK slots.

Unlike the base SBR, this one has a fixed front sight base and a Williams Gun Sight Company folding rear sight. The BCM Gunfighter model also sports an ambidextrous safety.

It comes with two M-LOK rail sections and a Magpul 30 round 5.56mm NATO magazine. While close in specs to the other SBR, you get some different options on the Gunfighter, including that rugged, fixed front sight base.

MSRP is also $1,279.00 on this one.

The M&P 15T SBR 556

The last entry in S&W’s new SBR line is the M&P 15T SBR 556. Once again, it shares the basic receiver and barrel specs as the other two rifles. This one is outfitted with a B5 Systems SOPMOD stock and a B5 Systems P-Grip 23 pistol grip. It has a 10.5-inch free-float M-LOK handguard. The 15T uses Williams Gun Sight Company folding front and rear sights.

It has an ambidextrous safety selector, and this one comes with an ambidextrous Radian Raptor-LT charging handle. Like the other rifles, it ships with two M-LOK rail sections and a 30-round Magpul magazine.

MSRP on the 15T is $1,295.00.

SBR’s Galore

Smith & Wesson’s new M&P 15 SBR line gives a nice variety of options. Each rifle looks well thought out and is fitted with quality components right from the factory. If you’re in the market for an SBR, it’s worth checking out these ones from Smith & Wesson.

For more information, check out Smith & Wesson.

The 5.11 Tactical LE EMT Multitool 2.0

By
Travis Pike
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A good friend of mine recently joined our local Sheriff’s department, just in time to deal with three hurricanes in thirteen months, a rise in crime, and a declining economy as the main mill in our town pulled up stakes and left. He’s had an interesting first year. He’s been steadily improving his gear in line with department policies. As a gear nerd, I’ve been helping, and when he wanted a new glass breaker, I wanted to find him the simplest, lightest daily carry option. That’s how I stumbled into the LE EMT Multitool 2.0. 

It started as a quest to find a glass breaker but ended with finding a multitool. Sometimes, you get more than you bargain for. Instead of getting one tool to add to my friend’s duty belt, we found a tool to replace the multitool he was already carrying. Let’s dig into the LE EMT Multitool 2.0. 

LE EMT Multitool 2.0 – The Breakdown 

The LE EMT Multitool 2.0, as the name implies, is designed for the professional first responder. The tool folds away like any other standard multitool and fits into a pocket or pouch with ease. The kit packs 11-ish tools, depending on how you count the pliers. They feature both a standard straight set of pliers and round tip. 

The tools attached to the LE EMT Multitool 2.0 are built for first responders. These might not be the best bet for the average person who’s looking for a standard EDC multitool. A lot of these tools are too specialized to be of use to most people. There are some dedicated tools aimed at rescue tasks that might be considered a downside for the average user. 

For LEOs, EMTs, firefighters, and the like, these tools are handy, convenient, and smartly designed. As we do the review, we’ll talk a bit about why these tools are first responder ready. 

The LE EMT Multitool 2.0 – The Tools Tell the Tale 

First off, let’s look at some of the more common tools. We have a knife, no big deal every multitool has a knife. However, this knife features a rounded edge. It’s designed for cutting someone out of a vehicle. In that situation, a point could harm someone. The rounded edge is safer, but it’s a sacrifice in utility. This is one of those examples of why this tool isn’t for everyone. 

Besides the knife, we get a strap/belt/flexi-cuff cutter. It’s quite sharp, so watch your hands. We have a small pry tool that could double as a flathead driver. We have a handcuff key built-in with a double lock key on top. That makes up our folding tools. 

The handle has an ¼ inch hex head. The pliers have flat pliers and an oxygen wrench, and they just do plier things quite well. We finish it off with the spring-loaded glass breaker. You press the glass breaker against the glass, and when it reaches a particular point, it releases the glass breaker and smashes the glass in a safe and controlled manner. 

More Than Tools 

The LE EMT Multitool 2.0 is mostly made from stainless steel. The blades are made from 3CR13 steel. It’s all low-maintenance materials that won’t rust or stain easily. It’s tough and designed for hefty work. It might get left in a pouch for weeks at a time, and you won’t have to worry about it. 

The tools themselves work quite well. The handcuff key and double lock work perfectly with my friend’s cuffs. The strap cutter is amusingly well-made. It strips right through most materials with ease. The blade might not have a tip, but you’ll get the point. It’s sharp, cuts through all sorts of stuff, and offers the right amount of serration to get through thicker materials.

The pliers are just plain beefy. They offer a wrapping-style grip that makes it easy to pinch and grab. Sadly, we couldn’t find a piece of glass to break, but I know he’s now waiting for the opportunity to try it out. 

The LE EMT Multitool 2.0 – Not For Everyone

Not everything is for everyone. Some tools are purpose-built. This might be a great stash-in-the-car tool for the average Joe, but I don’t think a non-first responder would get the full value of the LE EMT Multitool 2.0. It’s a well-made tool, it’s purpose-built, and it does its job quite well. 

For more information, please visit 511Tactical.com.

5.11 Discreet Concealment Features

By
The Suited Shootist
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The Tactical Tuxedo

5.11 has been one of the top names in tactical apparel and discreet concealment for decades now. From being the go-to pants for the FBI Academy at Quantico to the ubiquitous “photographer vest” used by SOF & military contractors in the early GWOT, 5.11 Tactical is synonymous with the armed professional.

But none of those dudes are on duty and/or running overt missions 24/7/365. Whether it’s a surveillance operation or a trip to the grocery store, some situations call for less overt attire.

Through the late aughts and 2010s, 5.11 made attempts at “street clothing” that certainly didn’t qualify as “uniform” clothing but had an appearance that fully suggested the wearer was armed and likely on the job. The “5.11 Tuxedo” became a bit of a punchline within the concealed carry space.

Over the last few years, however, 5.11 has made a concerted effort to make truly discreet clothing that doesn’t skyline the wearer as potentially being armed.

They graciously sent me some of their lineup, and I’ve been wearing it regularly over the last few months. So what sets 5.11’s discreet clothing apart from the run-of-the-mill stuff you get at your local big-box retailer?

Center front RapiDraw™ snap placket (aka Pearl Snaps for Gun Dudes)

Many of the “button-up” shirts that 5.11 offers come with this feature. For those unfamiliar, the placket is the strip up the front of the shirt where the buttons and buttonholes overlap. This facilitates your draw-stroke in a couple of ways.

The front of your shirt is now “breakaway,” so if you typically carry on the hip at 3 o’clock under an open cover garment (like a jacket), you can use essentially the same “claw & rip” draw as you normally would.

For appendix carry, this breakaway feature is a failsafe if your shirt gets hung up on the draw. With normal button-up shirts, especially cotton ones that don’t stretch, it’s possible for the hem of the shirt to snag on your beltline (or the curve of the buttocks), and restrict how high you’re able to clear the shirttail.

Photo Credit: 5.11 Tactical

Discreet Extra Pockets

Virtually all pants in the 5.11 lineup have extra pockets. Most of them, being duty-oriented, have those pockets on the legs or otherwise visible. In less rugged environments, those pockets can stand out and be a tell. With the Defender-Flex Jeans & Chinos, they’ve found a way to give the wearer extra pockets while still maintaining a clean aesthetic that doesn’t stand out or draw unwanted attention.

Following the seam of the yoke, there’s an extra pocket that sits outboard of the cheek. This offers a couple of major benefits.

First, you’re not sitting on whatever’s in your back pocket. If you spend a lot of time seated, this is way better for your hips and back.

Second, it opens up some pocket carry options. Since most people keep their wallet and/or phone in a back pocket, you can keep these valuables in the yoke pocket, which then frees up real estate for a flat little semi-auto in the back pocket.

It’s also a great spot for a spare mag, tourniquet, or sap/blackjack (provided they’re legal where you live).

5.11 has been making strides to improve its discreet clothing to blend into a wider range of settings, and I look forward to seeing what the company has planned for the future.

For more information, please visit 511Tactical.com.

Disclaimer: While the clothing used for this article was provided at no cost by 5.11 Tactical, there was no requirement or expectation of a positive review in exchange.

EDC Urban and Woods Neckers 

By
Reuben Bolieu
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Two lightweight EDC Urban and Woods Neckers: the A.G. Russel Woods Walker and Bear Forest Knives Sliver!

Two Neck Knives, something old & something new. The A.G. Russell Woods Walker and Bear Forest Knives Sliver. These are two of the lightest EDC Urban and Woods Neckers alive! 

Woodswalker

The A.G. Russell Woodswalker stands out as a great all-around knife that has been around since the 1970s, crafted for those who love the outdoors while appreciating a bit of tradition. This lightweight, non-folding pocketknife serves perfectly for a peaceful morning in the wild.

Whether you hunt small game like quail, squirrel, dove, or rabbit, or whip up a meal in nature, this knife has you covered with its 2 ⅜-inch drop point blade made from tough 8Cr13MoV stainless steel, which holds a solid Rockwell hardness of 57-59.

Creating delicate, curly shavings with the A.G. Russell Woodswalker was effortless.

The full tang construction provides that perfect balance and stability, and the POM handle ensures a comfy grip, making it easy to handle. With an overall length of 6 inches and a weight of only 1.2 ounces, it makes for an easy-to-carry companion in any hunter’s kit.

A.G. Russell Woodswalker features a 90-degree sharpened spine that easily creates sparks on thinly carved feather sticks.

EDC Carry Options 

Decide on your preferred carry style: the timeless elegance of a leather pocket sheath or the sleek, contemporary vibe of a Kydex® neck sheath. Personally, I went with the neck carry option—it keeps my pockets light and leaves my hands free for whatever adventures come my way!

The Sliver 

The Sliver from Bear Forest Knives is a featherweight utility knife designed for maximum portability and precision. At a mere 0.06 ounces and 1/16 inch thick, it’s one of the slimmest knives on the market.

Its 2-inch 1095 high carbon steel blade, featuring a zero Scandi grind and an acid wash finish, offers exceptional cutting performance and durability. The skeletonized handle and Kydex sheath contribute to its lightweight design, making it the perfect tool for everyday carry or outdoor adventures. 

EDC Urban and Woods Neckers 

I learned much while working in the field with these two mini powerhouse knives. The A.G. Russell Woodswalker stands out as a true classic. I tested it by feathering oak and maple for a quick fire. This knife excels at precision work, gliding effortlessly through wood.

Don’t overlook its hidden gem: a sharp 90-degree spine that strikes a Ferro rod to produce a shower of sparks. It serves as a tool and a reliable companion for any outdoor adventure.

The Sliver joined me on hikes, sliced food, struck Ferro rods, and assisted with camp crafts making is a true EDC Urban and Woods Necker.

Meanwhile, The Sliver accompanied me on several outdoor hikes. It sliced food, struck Ferro rods, and helped me make simple camp crafts. It stirred coffee, cut cordage, and peeled carrots with ease. I found it perfect as an easy-to-use utility cutter for slicing open packages and food bags. Slicing cardboard and acting as an impromptu fork became part of the gig for the Sliver. 

Finale

The A.G. Russell Woodswalker and Bear Forest Knives Sliver are reliable neck knives for outdoor adventures and everyday carry. The Woodswalker offers traditional versatility, while the lightweight Sliver excels in urban tasks. Together, they enhance your experiences in nature and city life.

For more information, please check out A.G. Russell and Bear Forest Knives. 

The Walther PPS – The Forgotten Innovator

By
Travis Pike
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The single stack 9mm world exploded when S&W released the Shield. The Shield is currently one of the best budget guns on the market, but during its introductions, it was so sought after and so popular that it was selling for well above MSRP. It was the first massively successful single stack 9mm, but it wasn’t the first. The Walther PPS wasn’t the first either, but it was one of the first from a major company that utilized the modern single stack 9mm layout. 

The Walther PPS was a polymer frame, striker-fired pistol that was an inch wide. It’s 1.1 inches and includes the slide release. That 1-inch wide grip quickly became the new standard for concealable 9mm handguns. The original PPS, now called the M1, was a hidden gem amongst concealed 9mms. As a natural contrarian, I was drawn to it. I retried the gun in 2018 with the release of the SIG P365. 

As I was going through the gun safe, I stumbled across my old friend, and it inspired me to regale you with the tale of the little Walther, a truly forgotten innovator in the firearms field. 

The Walther PPS – Walther Did It First 

The Walther PPS integrated the single stack 9mm design and purposefully aimed to make the gun slim. PPS stands for Police Pistol Slim. It can be seen as a continuation of the Walther PP/PPK series of pistols for the modern market. In the later James Bond novels, it’s Bond’s MI6-issued pistol.

Walther had a neat idea for a modern grip design. Users swapped the rear panels to change the grip size, but changing magazines could also affect grip size. Walther offered three magazine sizes: short, mid, and long. The short, flush-fitting magazine gave the user six rounds of 9mm. The mid extended the grip to eliminate the hanging pinky and offered seven rounds. Finally, the long gave you eight rounds and a Glock 19-length grip. 

It was neat to see, and I don’t think any other single stack 9 used this type of grip design. The Walther PPS used a trigger guard magazine release, which is very European. I like it, especially on small guns. Sadly, it was ditched on the PPS M2. The gun has simple three-dot sights, no manual safety, and a one-slot rail for the smallest of accessories. 

In 2007, when the gun was introduced, I didn’t think the lights were small enough to fit that rail, so it seemed to be intended for lasers. The PPS formed a simple concealed carry option, and while it predated the Shield by five years, it never exploded in popularity. 

What’s Wrong With the PPS? 

First, in the United States Walther seems to only be known for the PPK series of guns. A lot of awesome pistols are widely ignored. Guns like the P99 don’t ever get the credit they deserve. Walther just doesn’t have the same brand awareness or success with police forces. Or didn’t? It seems the PDP is doing an outstanding job. 

The Walther PPS never took off. I can see why it didn’t pass the feel test for a lot of shooters. The magazine release as a whole isn’t going to be favored by American audiences. It’s never caught on here, regardless of how much Walther and HK push it. 

The grip also kind of feels like a 2×4. It’s all corners, and while slim, it doesn’t feel superbly ergonomic. The PPS M2 fixed that and rounded some things out to make the grip a good bit more comfortable. By 2012, the majority of states had shall issue concealed carry, and in 2007, not only was it less common, people also just didn’t get their concealed carry permits as often. 

In 2007, I knew one guy with a CCW permit, but by 2012, my mom had one. They were a little too early to be massively successful, mixed with the lack of brand recognition. S&W also benefitted from the new world of gun media. Gun tube, a modern firearms website, and what’s normal now wasn’t normal then. Gun reviewers like me couldn’t proclaim it as a game changer. 

How’s It Handle? 

The Walther PPS handles like every other small 9mm. Or like most. The PPS has got a slightly snappy recoil. It’s a bit tougher on the hand due to the four corners you’re gripping. It’s aggressively textured with this block-like grip texture. As a result, it stays put, and the high grip allows for maximum control. 

The gun is plenty accurate for a small gun. It’s not exceptional, but C zone hits at 25 yards are easy. The Walther PPS eats basically anything you put through it. I’ve only ever seen it choke on steel-cased Winchester Forged ammo. I got a failure to extract once. That was a long time ago. 

Oh dear, I have no idea how many rounds downrange it has, but a ton. It was my carry gun for about six years, so it saw a lot of lead. These days, it’s happy in retirement, but I wouldn’t feel unsafe firing it up again if need be. 

The Walther PPS never got the credit it deserved. Walther attempted to revive the PPS line with the M2. They broke ground by including a mounted RMSc optic. As far as I know, this was the first time I saw a major company that had an optically enhanced small gun. 

Sadly, there is no M3. If Walther brought out an M3, with the trigger guard magazine release, optic-ready compatibility, and a stack-and-half style magazine, I’d be a buyer. How else would I be a contrarian? 

Lost Proofing – Stay Safe When You Hit the Trail

By
Jim Cobb
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Lost Proofing

I’m sure you’ve seen some of the news accounts of hikers who got lost and ended up spending a night or more out on the trail. Even worse are the ones who never make it back home. Lost proofing isn’t foolproof, but there are plenty of things you can do to help ensure a safe trip into Mother Nature.

Share Your Plan

Lost proofing starts before you leave home. Tell someone you trust what your plan is for your trip. While the details may be vague, you should at least be able to share when you’re leaving, the trailhead where you’re starting out, and when you plan to return home. If you’ll be gone several days, you might consider setting up a check-in schedule, where you will call or text at specified intervals, provided you’re able to get a signal.

If you don’t show up on time and they’ve not heard from you, they should get in touch with the local authorities. That whole thing about not reporting someone as missing until they’ve been gone 24 hours is a myth. Law enforcement and search and rescue agencies want to get involved as quickly as possible.

Bring a Map

This will reduce the likelihood of you suddenly realizing you have no idea where you are or how to get back. The basics of navigation aren’t difficult to master with a little practice. When my wife and I visit a new-to-us hiking location, we always make a point of taking a photo of the trail map and grabbing a paper copy if they’re available. Add a compass to the mix, along with some education on how to use it effectively, and you’ll be well on your way to finding your way home again.

Remember to STOP

If you do find yourself wondering exactly where you went wrong (on the trail, not life in general, though I suppose it might work in that case, too), remember the acronym STOP. This won’t make you lost proof, but it’ll help you get back home if your other plans fail.

S = Stop moving and sit down.

T = Think about your situation. Once you’ve calmed yourself down, try to remember how you got to where you are right now. You might be able to retrace your steps.

O = Observe what’s around you, including what’s in your pockets and pack. What resources do you have available? And how can you put them to the best use? This is also a good time to take a good look at your surroundings. Is it getting too late in the day to make it back before dark? Is bad weather on the way?

P = Plan your next move. Use all of the information you gathered in the previous steps to decide exactly how you want to proceed.

Bring Signal Tools

Be sure to pack multiple tools to help people find you. A good whistle is far louder than shouting, even at full Dad volume. Plus, it won’t give you a sore throat. They’re also cheap and easy to use.

Signal mirrors weigh nearly nothing and work great, provided there’s sunlight to reflect at your target. Flares work day or night. Use flagging tape to mark your trail if you have to keep moving. The idea here is to help them help you as best you can. Make their job as easy as possible.

While you’re at it, keep in mind that a moving target is going to be much more difficult for searchers to find. Kids are told to hug a tree if they get lost. The same principle applies to adults. Stay put unless you have a good reason to move.

The 5.11 Tactical Deploy PL-USB

By
Travis Pike
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For a long time, I was against rechargeable lights. Not lights with rechargeable removable batteries, but rechargeable lights that had no removable battery. After having kids who’ve gotten into small electronics, I’ve changed my mind. At least when it comes to EDC lights. Do you know how many times my kids have taken all of my triple and doubles As? With that in mind I stumbled across the 5.11 Tactical Deploy PL-USB. 

5.11 Tactical sent me the light to test and review, and it’s my second rechargeable only light. Other than the Deploy, I also have a Streamlight Wedge, which I like a whole lot. The Deploy offers a smaller, more compact light for a bit more discreet carry.

The slight rectangular shape makes sure it doesn’t look like a light. And that it lays flat in your pocket. It’s a lot less disturbing to the pocket than the typical round EDC light. 

As you’d imagine, the Deploy PL-USB charges via USB. Specifically, it’s USB-C since it’s not 2014 anymore. The light charges quickly and efficiently. The body of the light is made from aluminum and comes with a reversible pocket clip. As a result, the little light is super carry-friendly, and I’ve downsized the crap I care about. The Deploy fell right into line with my individual EDC goal. 

The Deploy Power 

It’s a little light, and as you’d imagine, little lights don’t have a ton of power. The light has two modes. The high mode gives us 300 lumens and 740 candela, and the battery lasts about 90 minutes. However, the low mode kicks out 30 lumens and 100 candela, and the battery lasts nine hours and 40 minutes. 

That’s a fair bit of battery power for such a small light. The high mode isn’t anything Cloud Defensive would produce, but it’s enough room to cut through a dark room and light it up. The beam has a ton of spill and it fills your vision from eye to eye. It impressed me. Indoors and out, it’s enough light to find your keys, change a tire in the rain, or deal with a trip to the breaker box. 

Low mode gets a lot dimmer. It’s fine for basic admin tasks, simple navigation, and doing little tasks. Even in the low mode, the Deploy gives you enough light to read, walk through a dark house, and other little chores. This isn’t a search and rescue-light, and it’s not going to be great for finding bad guys or cutting through photonic barriers. 

However, for normal, everyday stuff, it’s a great little light. The small size and lightweight nature make it comfy to carry. It drops flat in your pants and fits beside your pocket knife without getting in the way of your keys, wallet, or whatever else is in your pocket.

The Controls, Ergos, and More 

The light keeps things simple. It’s mostly flat with a little rubberized cover to protect the USB-C slot. This helps with the waterproof design, which is IPX4-rated. This means it can be splashed from any direction without much worry. Don’t submerge it, freeze it in an ice box, or take it scuba diving, and you won’t run into any issues. 

The ass end hides a rubberized clicky button. Hit it once, and it’s in high mode. Turn it off and back on, and it swaps to low mode. You continually change modes by turning the flashlight on and off. The outside of the light is textured here and there for a solid grip, even if it’s wet or your hands are sweaty. 

You can grab the Deploy in a fencing-style grip and comfortably wield the little fella. It’s simple, reliable, and rugged enough for daily carry. The price just happens to be right, or at least right for me. The Deploy is a new part of my refined, lighter, better concealed EDC, and it’s looking to stay. 

For more information, please visit 511Tactical.com.

DIY: Making a Bow Saw

By
Reuben Bolieu
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A straightforward example of bow saw making in a pinch.

Let’s journey through the world of making a bow saw for a quick down-and-dirty overnighter, day camp, or emergency survival scenario. This article will shed light on making a bow saw and the difference between it and bucksaw! 

Bow Saw vs. Bucksaw

A bucksaw is a solid, very involved tool that culminates into a solid build that can be used for years. However, a bow saw is a relatively temporary put-it-together and get-to-work project. But there are still some steps that must be adhered to for a successful DIY. 

The Scenario

I got into my late fall camp for a brisk overnighter, depending on my 24-inch, well-built Kelly H Bucksaw, which I had stashed. I didn’t account for the rain and humidity while I was traveling. To my surprise, my trusty Bucksaw had a wounded leg. One side was rotten, and the entire affair collapsed. 

Using the long saw blade to harvest a sapling.

DIY Bow Saw: A Simple, Effective Tool

Want a handy tool for cutting wood? You can make your own bow saw with just a few things: a flexible green branch, a saw blade, some nails or key rings, and a bit of cord.

First, cut your branch to size (around 3 feet) and split the ends. Bend the branch to condition it and let it twist and settle. Then, split the ends when you visually see them meet. Attach the saw blade to the ends with key rings, hardwood sticks, or nails already attached to the saw ends. 

A notch is carved to fit the saw and key ring once the green branch is split.

This DIY bow saw is an excellent tool for various tasks:

  • Outdoor Projects: Perfect for cutting firewood, clearing brush, or building small structures.
  • Camping: A compact and versatile tool for camp repairs or woodcutting.
  • Emergency Preparedness: A handy tool to have on hand for unexpected situations.
Tying a constrictor knot is more economical than whipping and wasting cordage.

The best part? You can customize your bow saw to your specific needs. Experiment with different branch sizes, blade types, and cord materials to find the perfect combination.

Burning the ends and pressing the ends with the metal portion of the lighter is optimal.

So, the next time you need a saw, why not try a DIY Bow Saw? It’s a fun and rewarding project that will give you a helpful tool. Do It!

How To Install a Shockwave Grip on Your Rossi Brawler

By
Travis Pike
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Sometimes, you can’t just leave well enough alone. As a fan of silly novelty guns, I recently purchased a Rossi Brawler. It’s a single-shot ‘pistol’ that fires either .410 or .45 Colt. Much like the Judge, it brings .410 power to a pistol configuration. The gun itself is a novelty with very little practical application. That’s fine with me. I like fun guns. The Rossi Brawler reminded me of a pirate gun, but it occurred to me that it could look a lot more like a pirate gun with a shockwave grip. 

I love shotguns, so I had more than one of these extra grips just kind of bouncing around. The two items didn’t seem impossible to combine. Sometimes, your dreams are only a dremel away. With this in mind, please remember that if you decide to undertake this, you are likely violating the gun’s warranty. It seems like it won’t cause harm, but don’t hold me responsible if this breaks your gun. 

The risk is 100% on you. It works fine on my gun, but I’m not taking responsibility for anything you do. 

The Rossi Brawler Shockwave 

These grips are made for both Mossberg and Remington shotguns. Mine is a Mossberg variant. I can’t tell you if the Remington one works, but the Mossberg model works fine. You’ll need the grip and stock bolt to install this onto your Brawler. That stock bolt has two washers. I had to add one additional washer for it to fit properly. 

You’ll need a dremel with a cutting wheel, a Phillips-head screwdriver, and two Allen wrenches of appropriate size. I also suggest all proper PPE be worn to use a Dremel. With all this in tow, we first need to remove the grip from the Brawler. It’s very simple. 

We have a Phillips head screw at the bottom. That removes the rubber portion. Inside the rubber portion sits a mount that uses a bolt with an Allen head. Get that out of there. Now, the grip is fully removed. I found that the stock Shockwave bolt for the Mossberg 500 fit perfectly.

It’s Dremel Time 

Hold the Shockwave grip up to the back of the Brawler. The Shockwave grip has this fun little protrusion designed to mate with the rear of the Mossberg series shotguns. That protrusion keeps the Shockwave from perfectly mating with the rear of the Brawler. This is where our Dremel makes its debut. 

We’ll slowly erase the upper 1/3rd of the protrusion with the Dremel and a good cutting wheel. It’s not a big deal if you cut more than that. You just need to cut enough to keep the protrusion from blocking the grip from sliding into the slot. Once the grip can fit into the slot, we can bolt things down. 

Slide the bolt with the extra washer in place and tighten it down. The Shockwave grip is going to want to twist, so make sure you hold it tight. Once the bolt gets tight enough, it won’t twist or move. 

The Brawler Shockwave 

The Brawler went from pirate pistol to super pirate pistol. Tally—and I cannot stress this enough—HO!

The Brawler with the Shockwave grip handles fine. Using the iron sights is admittedly a little harder. It feels odd, but it’s perfect with a red dot. I think Rossi should consider adding a grip like this to the Brawler as a stock option. It just looks and feels so right! 

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